YOUR skin is flushed and it's looking like a nasty flare-up rather than the rosy radiance you were hoping for when you got your umpteenth bottle of moisturiser. Before charging back to ask for a refund, consider if this is your skin's way of raising the alarm that you are using too many products.

"Sometimes women want to be beautiful overnight and they are over-zealous in their approach," said Ms Michelle Ong, group product training manager at Lancaster. "For instance, they use all types of sheet masks from different brands on a daily basis. When you bombard your skin with too much of a good thing too often, problems start to occur."

Ms Ong suggests keeping to products of the same brand because their formulas are designed to work in harmony and it is okay to mix and match.

It sounds perfectly logical.

But the beauty industry would hardly be such a thriving business if we were capable of such restraint. With the constant influx of new technologies, new formulations and new marketing taglines, it seems only natural to be curious about the next big breakthrough. Until the skin's protests manifest in the form of redness, peeling and inflammation, that is.

"Women like to try different products but when active ingredients overlap and are too strong, skin can flare up," said Dr Patricia Yuen, dermatologist at Pacific Healthcare Specialist Centre. Potentially irritating ingredients to look out for include retinol, alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide (see table below).

Dr Ang Por, consultant dermatologist at Dermatology Associates Skin and Laser Specialists, has seen patients who developed skin problems after combining too many such ingredients in their regimens. She explained: "Using multiple ingredients increases the chance of irritation or allergy. Overexposure to multiple ingredients may also cause skin to become sensitised and develop allergies to them."

Seems like a grave price to pay when the initial goal was better and healthier skin.

Dr Yuen recommends paring down and sticking to this list of basics: Cleanser, non-alcohol-based toner, a product containing antioxidants such as Vitamin C if you're over 30, moisturiser and sunblock. She added: "Don't exfoliate all the time. Once a week is enough."

Know your labels

Rather than concentrate on slathering on more product, pay attention to what goes into them. Know these skincare ingredients and use them correctly for maximum benefit.

Retinol

What it does: Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and belongs to a family of chemical compounds known as retinoids. According to Dr Ang, it lightens pigmentation; stimulates collagen production to diminish wrinkles and improve skin tone and texture; and exfoliates the surface of skin to help remove and prevent comedones (blackheads and whiteheads).

Use it right: According to Dr Ang, this may cause some sensitivity in the sun as well as mild irritation like redness or peeling. She recommends using this with moisturisers which do not contain other potentially irritating ingredients. "For example, use retinol at night and AHA creams in the morning," she suggested. Daily sun protection is a must.

Find it in ... Lancaster Retinology Total Age Solution ($138 for 30ml, $198 for 50ml from OG and Tangs) has a delivery system which propels retinol to cells that need it and promises to improve wrinkles, firmness and skin density in eight weeks.

Glycolic acid

What it does: Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from plants. Like other AHAs, it is a good exfoliating agent for surface skin, particularly ageing skin which needs help to remove dead skin cells, says Ms Ong. It also functions as a penetration enhancer for other skincare ingredients.

Use it right: This may cause some irritation and result in redness and some peeling, especially for sensitive skin. "Use in combination with more bland creams and products," said Dr Ang.

Find it in ... Vichy Normaderm Deep Cleansing Gel for Clear Skin ($36 from selected retailers and hospital pharmacies) is a gel cleanser for breakout-prone skin. It helps to remove impurities within skin and clear congested pores.

Salicylic acid

What it does: This is a beta hydroxy acid and works like glycolic acid to exfoliate the surface of skin. The difference is that it is more suitable for oily and blemish-prone skin because it's able to penetrate and unclog pores.

Use it right: Although salicylic acid penetrates deeper into pores, it is reportedly gentler than glycolic acid or AHAs. However, it is still not advisable to overload on this. Dr Ang advises exercising the same level of caution as with glycolic acid.

Find it in ... Clarins Gentle Foaming Cleanser ($40 from Clarins counters) is suitable for oily and combination skin. It refines skin texture, removes impurities and helps maintain skin balance by neutralising the effects of hard water.

Benzoyl peroxide

What it does: Benzoyl peroxide is commonly used in acne treatments to treat and prevent the condition. It slows the growth of P.acnes, the bacteria that causes breakouts and helps clear congested pores.

Use it right: Dr Ang recommends it as a spot treatment. It should not be used for the whole face as it is drying and may cause irritation. An oil-free moisturiser will help to prevent skin flaking.

Find it in ... Neutrogena On-the-Spot Acne Treatment ($11.50) is supposedly less irritating than most benzoyl peroxide preparations but still effectively tackles zits and prevents future outbreaks.

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