High fashion at high tea

Pastry chefs in London have been looking to runways for inspiration

Updated 12:13 PM Mar 25, 2011
by Amy Van traveller@mediacorp.com.sg

 

IT'S one of the rare times you can take a bite out of a classic Burberry trench coat and no one would bat an eyelid.

In fact, the reaction would be the same if you chomped on a Christian Lacroix dress or licked the sole of a Roger Vivier thigh-high boot.

The curious would even ask: "Is it good?"

The "it" refers to the designer items in Pret-a-Portea's Autumn/Winter 2009 collection - all of which are edible. The trenchcoat and boot are biscuits, and the dress, dark chocolate.

Like all pastries and cakes at London's most fashionable tea service at The Berkeley hotel, they were inspired by the latest catwalk looks.

The fashion statements are a far cry from the bread and butter that the Duchess of Bedford munched on to satiate her afternoon peckishness.

But what started as an aristocrat's simple snack in between meals in the early 19th-century has become a veritable English institution, served in establishments across the United Kingdom and the grand hotels of its former colonies.

In London, tea time has evolved into stylish affairs, with menus catering to everyone from the jet set to the traditionalists. Even men aren't left out.

A regular feature at the city's top hotels, afternoon tea is a chance for visitors to sample a facet of English culinary culture in some of London's most sophisticated interiors.

The Caramel Room where Pret-a-Portea is served, for example, is warm chocolate in colour, with faux crocodile fabric and low lighting.

Its muted ambience makes it a relaxing sitting room after a day of shopping at nearby Harrods or Harvey Nichols.

The pastries are changed every six months according to the fashion season.

To get inspiration for their cakes and fancies, The Berkeley's pastry chefs attend London Fashion Week to check out the lastest designs from the catwalks.

According to Simon Neggers, The Berkeley's public relations manager, the five-year-old Pret-a-Portea has a loyal following.

Fashionistas in particular check out the latest collections as soon as they appear on the tea stand.

Pret-a-Portea. £35 ($81) per person. The Berkeley, Wilton Place, Knightsbridge. www.the-berkeley.co.uk

high tea spots in London:

Chanel with sugar

The Bijoux Tea (Palm Court, The Langham)

Tea time has been a tradition at the recently-refurbished hotel since its establishment in 1865. The cream of London society used to gather there for nibbles and a cuppa.

Today, guests who stay until 7.05pm - formally known as the 18.65 champagne hour to celebrate the year the hotel was built - are treated to a small sampling of champagne with canapes.

The setting is sumptuous. Entry to Palm Court is through hand-crafted iron gates embellished with colourful glass stones to complement the red and indigo fabric.

Then, there is the decadent Bijoux Tea. The fancy bits are inspired by the designs of top jewellery houses, so you'll be nibbling on Baccarat crystal drops, Cartier love collection cookies and Asprey black and white Battenberg cake. See if you can spot the Bulgari and Chanel among the lot. The savouries are no less luxurious, with sandwiches of lobsters, foie gras and crab.

The Bijoux Tea. £40 per person. The Langham, 1c Portland Place, Regent Street. langhamhotels.co.uk

 

Fancy rooms

Parlour (Sketch)

A part of Sketch dining destination, Parlour is one of the quirkiest places to have tea in the city.

Like the restaurants and bar at Sketch, it is outrageously furnished. The tea room cum patisserie is a cross between a chemist lab and an airy drawing room.

The coffee and tea are selected by Sketch's head chef, three Michelin starred Pierre Gagnaire, so your cuppa will be as gourmet as it comes.

Parlour's high tea menu is traditional, with an array of finger sandwiches, scones and pastries.

However, once there, you can also opt for a treat from the luscious range of designer cakes at the patisserie. The signature dark Manjari chocolate tart is particularly good.

Before leaving, check out Sketch's famous egg-shaped toilet cabins. Very space age - a photo opportunity in itself.

Afternoon tea. From £24 per person. Parlour, 9 Conduit Street, Mayfair. www.sketch.uk.com

 

Tea with muscle

Men's Afternoon Tea (deVille Restaurant, Mandeville Hotel)

Although afternoon tea is popular among the ladies, the men are not forgotten at deVille Restaurant, one of the few places in London that serves an exclusive afternoon tea for men.

Besides an array of tea, the spread includes whiskies such as Highland Glen Garioch and Speyside Balvenie.

Sustenance is in the form of roast sirloin, beef and chicken satays, as well as double chocolate brownies, among other items.

For the peckish but reticent, games such as chess and dominoes at the bar will provide distractions when talk of football dries up.

Men's Afternoon Tea, £23.50. Whisky Afternoon Tea, £31. The Mandeville Hotel, Mandeville Place. www.mandeville.co.uk

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