The business of local beauty

Take a stroll through any mall in Singapore and you will be deluged with counters and shops hawking hundreds of brands of cosmetics, skincare and personal care products; from drugstore offerings to ultra-premium labels.

The beauty retail scene here is, undoubtedly, a highly competitive space, but it is also a sector in the retail arena that is robust and still growing, despite the softening economy over the last two years. Business consultancy RNCOS predicted in a 2013 analysis that Singapore’s beauty industry is set to grow by a compounded annual growth rate of 4 per cent between 2013 and 2017, while market research company Euromonitor observed in a report this year that premium and niche beauty brands are gaining prominence in this highly saturated market.

Indeed, the increasing presence of independent and so-called “cult” beauty brands, alongside the relatively recent influx of Korean beauty products here, has fostered an increasingly sophisticated beauty consumer who is not intimidated by the multitude of choices at multi-label stores such as Sephora, Watsons and Escentials.

That is why the newest and most successful of Singapore-born beauty brands are turning their attention to this ultra-savvy consumer.

Local beauty brands have been conspicuously missing from the beauty counters and shelves here. Some factors include the fact that the start-up costs for cosmetics are very high (particularly in an industry where keeping up with the latest technologies and innovations is crucial).

In addition, there is an inherent prejudice against local products, especially when European, Japanese and Korean brands seem to have cornered the market in terms of innovation, technology and marketing, and branding prowess.

But with the growing popularity of the niche brand, we look at four innovative Singaporean beauty labels that are banking on the hope that their unique brand concepts, international branding and high levels of product quality will pave the way towards local, and in the future, world domination.

> THE BESPOKE SKINCARE EXPERT

Skin Inc (http://www.iloveskininc.com), for example, started out with a hole-in-the-wall store at The Central at Eu Tong Sen Street in 2007. It has since ballooned into a gobal brand with over 11 concept stores in countries such as Spain and Vietnam. It is also the first Singaporean brand to be distributed by Sephora, and its products are sold in 300 Sephora stores across the United States.

Founder Sabrina Tan was inspired to create a customisable skincare label after her experience as a busy mother-of-two who suffers from eczema drove her to find a more time-efficient and effective skincare regimen.

“I realised that there was a gap in the market and that inspired me to change and revolutionise the concept of skincare. I wanted to streamline my regime and find a product that is truly customised for me,” she said.

With that, Skin Inc was born. The brand’s signature offering is the My Daily Dose Custom-Blended Serum. Customers go through a digital questionnaire to ascertain their current skin condition and needs, before the face serum, which incorporates three concentrated skincare ingredients (out of a possible nine) that are best suited to tackle them, is mixed at the counter.

With the customisable trend going from strength to strength in both the fashion and beauty industries, Skin Inc has seen phenomenal success, growing by 300 per cent year-on-year since its launch with revenues from the local market growing by 50 per cent in the first half of 2015. It is also the first Singaporean beauty brand to be a partner at the prestigious New York Fashion Week, where it was the official skincare partner at the Alice & Olivia Spring/Summer 2016 runway show. Tan is finalising plans to launch a concept store in Milan, Italy, and to enter the China beauty market next year.

Skin Inc is at #B3-43 ION Orchard, Sephora stores and Luxola and Zalora websites.

> THE ARTISANAL CANDLE ATELIER

Singapore’s frenetic pace as an urban capital city may have propelled the popularity of luxury home fragrance products that allow one to create a comforting cocoon and spa-like atmosphere at home or in the office. Which is where homegrown luxury home fragrance brand To Be Calm comes in.

Its gorgeously scented candles and diffusers come encased in minimalist, contemporary packaging and evocative names that resonate with the frequent-traveller and PMEB markets such as Travellers Journey and Conference Calls. There is even a popular Singapore-inspired candle named Singapore Journey, which incorporates designs by local artist Pamela Yee and a locally inflected frangipani-ginger scent. (About 100 Singapore Journey candles are sold per month.)

Founder Cherylynne Clews was driven to concoct her own aromatherapy recipes to help her unwind from the stresses of her job (she was the vice-president of the Global Client Group at American Express), or simply achieve more focus. After receiving positive feedback from colleagues, she was inspired to start her own brand of high-quality, reasonably priced home fragrances. The raw ingredients used for the brand’s products are sourced from France and Australia.

“Our brand and what we stand for resonates well with many people looking for a little more calm in their lives,” she said. “To Be Calm(er) is something we all aspire to in today’s increasingly busy world and I believe strongly that the right fragrance can make this more attainable.”

Clews is looking to strengthen brand awareness and launch into key markets such as the United Kingdom, Australia, Korea, Japan and Hong Kong in the short term — and has also set her sights on the thriving home fragrance market in the US.

To Be Calm has three standalone concept stores, including #B1-16 Capitol Piazza; and online at http://www.tobecalmgroup.com.

> THE STEM-CELL SKINCARE INNOVATOR

The main focus of the use of stem cell technology may be in the medical arena, but Singapore-based bio-tech company CellResearch Corporation is finding a new use for stem cells — in anti-ageing skincare. It is channelling 10 years of stem cell research into Calecim, a skincare line consisting of a serum and cream launched this year that harnesses nutrient-rich umbilical cord extract ethically harvested from red deer in New Zealand to help skin cells regenerate quicker.

A professional range, Calecim Professional contains a higher concentration of these proteins and is available at dermatologist clinics to complement aesthetic treatments such as laser therapy.

CellResearch Corporation has been a pioneer in stem cell research for the past 10 years: Its patented source of stem cells, found in the umbilical cord lining, is being used as a platform for the research of multiple medical therapies such as advanced wound care, said group CEO Gavin Tan.

“Through this research, we have realised the potential of developing a beauty product targeted at the general consumer,” he added. “Calecim is the result and it was created to restore optimal skin health. With its extensive scientific background, we believe it is the most powerful skin conditioning and rejuvenating product of its type currently available.”

While he declined to offer details, Calecim has achieved “seven figures” in sales revenue since its launch, said Tan. It is shipped internationally from Singapore, and the brand is currently sourcing for distribution partners in key and unexplored markets globally.

Calecim is available online at http://www.calecim.com and at Lazada.

> THE ECO-FRIENDLY NAIL LABEL

Organic nail brand Coat was the brainchild of founder Caryn Lim, who had used organic nail lacquers from the United States at her nail and massage spa Hands+Feet Studio and found the colour range rather limited. So, what is a girl to do? “I decided to embark on a journey with three business partners to research and launch nail lacquers that would not only offer vibrant, lasting, beautiful colours, but more importantly, colours that are caring and non-toxic,” said Lim.

Launched last year, Coat nail lacquers are unique in that they do not contain the five controversial ingredients found in most other nail lacquers — toluene, dibutyl phthalate (DBP), camphor, formaldehyde and resin — which have spurred debate in the beauty industry on their adverse effects on health and the environment. The shades are selected to suit Asian skin tones and match seasonal runway trends, while limited-edition collections celebrate Asian cultures and festivals.

Complementary nail care products also boast eco-friendly formulations, such as the organic Soy Polish Remover, Must-Have Base and Super-Dry Finish. Lim is currently in talks to launch the brand in Thailand and Japan soon.

Coat is available at Hands+Feet Studio, 44 Siglap Drive, Tel: 6448 7187, and selected nail spas and salons islandwide.