How to reduce hair damage due to colouring

Going blonde used to be a statement of punk rebellion, but the trend is now so widespread here and in fashion-forward Asian cities, such as Seoul and Hong Kong, that it seems to be almost de rigueur.

Salons here, for example, are reporting a sharp uptick in the number of requests for hair colours that range from the more extreme platinum to strawberry blonde shades.

BEFORE YOU GO BLONDE

However, what most followers of fashion don’t know is that dyeing one’s mane — from the typical dark Asian hair shades to blonde — requires several rounds of pre-lightening, a process that involves stripping off the hair’s natural pigments with bleach, resulting in a high degree of hair damage.

Here’s why: Each strand of hair is made up mainly of amino acid bonds at the cellular level, and when it is damaged by chemicals like bleach or extreme heat, the bonds break apart permanently, making it structurally weaker and more susceptible to further damage from high heat and the addition of chemicals.

With a high level of broken protein bonds in the hair shaft, the hair is also more likely to break and develop dreaded split ends.

Shawn Chia, associate salon director at high-end hair salon Chez Vous, observed that although blonde and “fashion shades”, such as pink and blue look bold and attractive on most Asians who are willing to go the mile; the trend of extreme dye jobs is a big factor behind the cases of severely damaged hair that he has seen at the salon — particularly when they are executed badly or done in combination with other damaging chemical services, such as perms or straightening.

“Celebrities, such as Korean K-pop stars go for such extreme hair colours as they usually have a hair stylist on standby to help them care for their hair and style their hair every day,” he said. “But a lot of people go for these hair colours and services without knowing that they need to know the right techniques and have the right tools (in order to make) their own hair look like what the celebrities have.

“Otherwise, they might be able to achieve the colour or hair texture that they desire, but their hair will be so dry and damaged that they won’t look very good.”

Instead of viewing hair colouring as a one-off process, Chia suggests looking at hair colouring — especially when going blonde — as a journey to prevent subjecting your hair to severe damage. He recommended booking a repairative in-salon hair treatment to strengthen the hair’s cellular structure, such as the Trilogy Synchronised Advanced Hair Rebuilder salon treatment, which repairs the damaged bonds.

Using an intensive hair mask every day (he recommends the Kerasilk Reconstruct Intensive Repair Mask) for a week prior to bleaching will also help, as well as colouring your hair over a few sessions if you are going for a very light shade, such as platinum blonde or ash-grey.

“Prevention is, after all, better than any cure,” said Chia.

TAKING CARE OF YOUR HAIR

With over-processed hair fast becoming one of the main hair woes of women (and men) around the globe, caused by increasingly frequent colouring and chemical processing, hair brands and salons have also upped the ante on hair care products and in-salon treatments for damaged hair.

Chez Vous’ Trilogy System (prices start from S$155) for example, consists of three separate hair services that work to ensure the long-term health and manageability of your hair. There is also the Resculpting Supreme, which lets you perm or straighten your hair while infusing it with protein to minimise the damage incurred, while the Express Revitalizing Supreme treatment works to enhance the shine, moisture levels and health of your coloured or re-texturised locks.

Other new-to-market salon services include the Goldwell Kerasilk Premium menu (starting from S$160), which features five salon services that cater to all hair concerns, from coarse and frizzy, to damaged and limp. The Kerasilk Color treatment, for example, infuses coloured hair with keratin and Tamanu oil to lock in your hair colour to prevent fading and maintain its glossiness for up to six weeks.

Luxury hair spa brand Kerastase launched its Fusio-Dose treatments (starting from S$72) late last year to address the wide range of urban hair concerns and needs. Inspired by a mixology bar, the Fusio-Dose concept utilises four concentrates and five booster shots which can be mixed together to create highly customised hair treatments.

If your hair isn’t too damaged and you’re just looking to tame flyaways and humidity-induced frizz, John Frieda’s new Frizz Ease 10 Day Tamer Pre-Wash Treatment (priced at S$21.90) is a unique treatment that is touted to penetrate deep into the hair shaft to prevent water molecules from causing hair to frizz and lose its shape. Its smoothening effect reportedly lasts up to five washes, a claim that might just send it flying off the shelves.

Frizzy hair looks damaged and unattractive, and can be caused by the natural texture of the hair, a humid climate like Singapore’s and actual hair damage, said Dexter Ng, creative director at DUO salon and an ambassador with John Frieda’s Singapore House of Experts.

“Daily and consistent care for your hair is very important. Likewise with facials, you can’t just go once and expect the results to last forever. Using the appropriate hair products, tools and the right education from your stylist about how to work with your hair and maintain its health and smoothness is key.”