Anti:Dote | 4/5

SINGAPORE — The nondescript Ink Bar at Fairmont Singapore has made way for Anti:dote, a new cocktail and tapas bar.

Its big and bright interior is illuminated by a specially designed chandelier made of 26,000 pieces of Borosilicate glass. You can choose to mingle with the crowd at the communal standing area, or pull up a counter seat at the open kitchen and bar where all the action takes place. Otherwise, sink into one of the plush sofas or ask for a more intimate table for two.

At the helm, head cocktail craftsman Tom Hogan, a New Yorker who’s worked in Chicago’s Waldorf Astoria, and head chef Carlos Montobbio from Barcelona, work alongside each other to conceive complementary bites and drinks.

The affable Hogan flits from one table to the next to explain his “non-conventional, experimental” drinks made with premium spirits and fresh ingredients like fruits and veggies. Hogan uses house-made aromatic bitters and flavoured liqueurs, balanced with herbs and flowers like Cuban mint and cinnamon basil plucked from the hotel’s herb garden. If you are feeling adventurous, try the specially crafted tonics, which feature ingredients like bittergourd, American ginseng and smoked lapsang suchong.

To kick-start the evening, we munched on crisp potato chips paired with warm white truffle puree (S$12), and thyme crostini slathered with roasted bell peppers and pistachio cream (S$8). This was followed by the crowd-pleasing Shigoku oysters (S$18 for three). We slurped up the plump oysters crowned with crunchy cucumber, wasabi cream and tangy passionfruit jelly, and took a sip of Remedy (S$23) — a refreshing mix of blanc vermouth, mango, bergamot, citrus and tequila. The drink also paired well with succulent cubes of yellowfin tuna (S$16) perked up with green apple, herring caviar and a squirt of piquant jalapeno ponzu.

Among all the items, we weren’t convinced by the langoustine tartar with peanut “tofu” served in chilled tom yum broth (S$16). Although the langoutine was sweet and fresh, we felt that the broth was too salty, and lacked the sour-spicy appeal of tom yum.

We were, however, impressed with Anti:dote’s rendition of the pizza, which comprises a crisp Parmesan base scattered with tomato powder and garlic powder, and garnished with pesto, basil leaves and flowers next to tiny blobs of olive oil “caviar”. The innovative adaptation aside, its distinctive and well balanced flavours were particularly noteworthy. What really stood out on the menu though, was the caramelised foie gras with vinegar glazed leeks sitting atop crisp puff pastry (S$18). Pop one of these into your mouth and allow the rich, sweet, creamy sensation to meld together.

We also liked the steamed bao (S$20) filled with braised veal cheeks and Perigord sauce made with foie gras, caramelised shallots, black truffles and a splash of Madeira wine. For added decadence, these fluffy pillows were topped with black truffle slices. We thought The Blood of Dillinger (S$23), a refreshing and potent concoction of beet, rosemary, honey, lemon and tequila, rounded off the experience nicely.

There are three desserts to choose from, and we recommend the baked chocolate mousse with hazelnut praline and pear sorbet (S$12). This creation is velvety and rich, with balanced cold and warm temperatures. Before leaving, pop one of the fun and fabulous petit fours (S$4 each). We loved the passionfruit marshmallow with chorizo bits as much as we enjoyed the Karukera chocolate with Eldorado rum truffle. Creative, experimental and exciting, we believe Anti:dote will be a hot favourite, even with the most jaded palate. NAOMI ZI YI

Anti:dote

Where:

Level 1, Fairmont Singapore, 80 Bras Basah Road

Telephone:

6431 5315

Opening hours: 5pm until late daily