Food review: Clinton Street Baking Company

SINGAPORE — Perhaps we are a truly jet-set nation, or perhaps we just watch a lot of American television shows, but it seems many Singaporeans are very familiar with the New York food scene — at least judging by the crowds at Clinton Street Baking Company. Since it opened last month, people have been seen queuing for a table from 8am, waiting outdoors in the haze, just for a taste of all-American diner fare.

Started in 2001 by husband-and-wife team Neil Kleinberg and Dede Lahman, the hole-in-the-wall space in New York City’s Lower East Side became a cult destination for pancakes, buttermilk biscuits and fried chicken. The Singapore outlet — the first in South-east Asia — attempts to recreate the hip, grungy Manhattan vibes at its Purvis Street unit, and strives to deliver an authentic taste by following the New York recipes almost to a T. But, this has been a double-edged sword.

On the good side, the pancakes (S$18) absolutely live up to the hype. The blueberry-studded stack, served with more blueberries in the form of a compote and a small ramekin of warm maple butter on the side, is every bit worth the price — especially when much lesser renditions are peddled for a higher price at hipster hangouts these days. The incorporation of whipped egg whites in the batter creates fat pancakes that are exceptionally fluffy. The wild Maine blueberry compote is naturally sweet rather than cloying. The warm maple butter, made with top-grade Canadian maple syrup, adds an indulgent touch to an otherwise simple breakfast item. There isn’t quite enough of this liquid gold to drench each piece of pancake with, but given the outstanding texture of the pancakes, it seems sacrilegious to turn them into a squishy, syrup-soaked mess.

Also worth the wait are the buttermilk biscuits — and anything served on it — such as the Eggs Benedict (S$20), which comprises perfectly poached eggs smothered in a tangy, tabasco- and cayenne-laced hollandaise and served sitting on chunky, crumbly toasted biscuits.

On the flip-side are items that are tailored to suit American taste buds but not that of locals. When we went, the buttermilk fried chicken dinner (S$25) — a heaped platter of thigh, drum and breast meat — was tough; the coarse, crunchy cornmeal coating further contributed to its dryness. And while most fried chicken boasting a “secret mix” of spices will leave you wondering what the mix is, this just left us wondering where the mix was. We were told that the fried chicken is very similar to what is served in New York, so it must be just a matter of differing tastes.

Thankfully, the taste for breakfast items, baked goods and sweets — such as their moist Black & White (chocolate and vanilla) layer cake (S$9.50 a slice) and super-smooth milkshakes (S$10) made with ice cream, heavy cream, milk, and topped with Chantilly cream — seems to be universal. And one would have a fine carb- and sugar-laden feast here if one sticks to these options. KOH YUEN LIN

Clinton Street Baking Company

Where: 31 Purvis Street

Telephone: 6684 4845

Opening hours: 8am to 6pm daily

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