Alkaff Mansion Ristorante | 3.5/5

SINGAPORE — Alkaff Mansion may be one of only a few well-preserved colonial houses on the island, but it seems history isn’t enough to draw Singaporeans to dine in its grand surrounds and it has never quite been able to establish itself as a popular restaurant.

Nevertheless, a different chef at the helm hopes to change that. Sardinian executive chef Simone Depalmas is offering fare that veers towards his native land with dishes that are intriguing and familiar, such as the produce that the chef imports from his homeland (for example, fregola made by a small, home-based producer) and classics such as Sardinian-style suckling pig (S$46).

Depalmas chooses pigs that weigh between 4kg and 5kg. At that size, he said, the pigs are at the perfect age — too young and their meat wouldn’t have developed enough flavour; too old and they would taste too porcine. He roasts each pig on a bed of myrtle at a mild 70°C for seven hours and then blitzes it at high heat to give the skin a golden crisp and crackle.

The result is a platter of suckling pig with luscious, fork-tender flesh, lined with skin that snaps joyfully in the mouth. A couple of new potatoes — baked until they are creamy within — provide a lovely, sweet contrast to the rich pork.

The fregola (S$28) — semolina dough rolled up into tiny balls like couscous — is one of the high points of Depalmas’ menu. First toasted to give them a lovely nutty flavour, they are stewed with fresh prawns, clams and mussels in a light, briny tomato sauce. It is comforting and very satisfying as a one-dish meal.

Octopus carpaccio (S$24), made by steaming the octopus leg for 90 minutes with a glass of red wine to retain its rosy hue, got our vote too. The octopus had been cooked down to the texture of lean fish and served with oranges, cherry tomatoes and a balsamic reduction. The baked lamb rack (S$45) was boldly seasoned, cooked to a warm, pink centre and drizzled with a citrusy prune sauce that bore just the right balance of sweetness and acidity.

To enjoy a wide swathe of the restaurant’s a la carte menu might be expensive, so opt for the three-course set lunch (S$36) — it’s a good way to sample what it has to offer. If nothing else, its idyllic location provides a chance to dine away from the madding crowd. ANNETTE TAN

Alkaff Mansion Ristorante

Where: 10 Telok Blangah Green

Telephone: 6510 3068

Opening hours: Monday to Friday 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm; Saturday 11.30am to 3.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm; Sunday 10am to 3.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm