Caffe B | 3.5/5

SINGAPORE — A sophisticated Italian restaurant, Caffe B celebrates its third anniversary by incorporating more Japanese elements into its food.

The intricate Japanese kaiseki meal is encapsulated in the restaurant’s Antipasti Degustation Style platter, which is part of the restaurant’s four-course Signature set menu (S$100).

It features six one-bite appetisers with pronounced flavours — a baby asparagus spear with truffle cream on a garlic crouton, San Daniele ham with sweet melon caviar, torched tuna with black caviar, among other things. They were all simple bites, and made nice pops of flavour to whet the appetite before the meal.

An antipasto of smoked tofu with teriyaki powder and Italian coriander salad (S$18) followed, a twist on the classic agadeshi tofu. The crisp tofu could have had a stronger smoke flavour that contrasted with the grassy herbs it was crowned with, making it a lovely, delicate dish.

Singaporean flavours also make an appearance. There was a chilli crab-inspired risotto (S$38) with creamy, al dente rice crowned with a plump and deftly cooked Hokkaido scallop finished with a good sear on its exterior. This dish’s flavours were subtle and nuanced, and it was a joyful reinterpretation of a beloved classic.

Naturally, there was pasta. In our case, squid ink tonnarelli cooked to silky-yet-with-bite perfection. Part of the Signature set, the pasta was dressed in a tart tomato and cream sauce, and topped with raw sea urchin and discs of grilled eggplant. The muddy sea urchin, along with the eggplant, seemed like a clumsy addition. It would have benefitted from a sweeter seafood pairing to match the squid ink’s earthiness.

The baked Chilean cod with miso reduction displayed far more balance, with robust umami flavours that brought out the satin texture of the well-cooked fish. It was also nice that the chefs seared the fish’s skin so beautifully that it could be eaten like a cracker, providing an added textural dimension to the dish. Meanwhile, the main course of Murray Bridge lamb loin and sweetbreads (S$45) was equally flavoursome, drizzled with a teriyaki mint butter sauce that was rich and bright, although, we couldn’t help but wish there was a patch of creamy mashed potatoes or something similar comforting to go with it.

If there is one thing this restaurant does well, it is balance. Creating a cuisine that combines the traditions and flavours of Japanese and Italian food is not new, yet Caffe B does it with enough expert restraint to ensure that a meal here offers delicious elegance and lightness. ANNETTE TAN

Caffe B

Where: #B1-15 The Shoppes At Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue

Telephone: 6887 3311

Opening hours: Daily noon to 2pm, 6pm to 11pm