Cook & Brew | 3/5

SINGAPORE — In a gastro-bar scene dominated presently by modernist bar snacks and artisanal cocktails, Cook & Brew, at the Westin Singapore’s 33rd-floor, is a welcome bit of down-to-earth relief. It is like the young lad who’s happy to stand around in his Levi’s and slouchy cotton shirt while the popular kids strap on a bowtie to their buttoned-up plaid shirts.

There are a few hints as to what could be hipster libations and livery — craft beers (104 kinds to be exact) and cocktails, chesterfield seats and polished cowhide — but when it comes to the food, Cook & Brew stays rooted in classic, comfort territory.

Take the chilli con carne “volcano” (S$13), a soft bun filled with Mexican chilli and topped with melted cheddar, for example. This could have been a new BreadTalk creation — simple, easy to appreciate and something you could have every day. It is the kind of uniquely Singaporean snack that you could eat for breakfast, tea or — as is the intention here — scarf down with your beer.

The same goes for the Sushi Bowl (S$18), which is anything but a sushi bowl. The slab of salmon that sits atop the rice is grilled to a nice char and drizzled with sweet soy sauce. There are cubes of tamago (Japanese egg cakes), slivers of baby radish and artful smears of wasabi mayonnaise, all of which makes for a very tasty dish despite its misleading name. If only the serving was heartier, this starter would also make for a satisfying one-dish lunch.

For those with larger appetites, there is a selection of classic European pub fare gussied up with photogenic props to ready them for their Instagram close-ups. The largest of these is the German Butcher’s Platter (S$24) comprising succulent pork sausages, a crisp and almost juicy Weiner schnitzel, a well-cooked pork chop, mashed potatoes and not-sour-enough sauerkraut presented on a skillet. It needed a little something — maybe a scoop of gravy, ketchup or mustard and probably more than a few beers to wash it all down — but perhaps that is the point.

The honey pork ribs (S$28), on the other hand, needed nothing at all. It was amply lacquered and fall-off-the-bone tender; its sweet, wholesome richness was complemented by the generous mounds of fresh, crunchy coleslaw.

While there is nothing surprising or mind-blowing about the food here, there is a certain comfort to be had in knowing that there is a stylish bar in the heart of the new downtown that doesn’t pretentiously posture. ANNETTE TAN

Cook & Brew

Where:

Level 33 The Westin Singapore

12 Marina View Asia Square Tower 2

Telephone:

6922 6948

Opening hours:

Monday to Thursday 11am to 12am

Friday 11am to 1 am

Saturday 6pm to 1am