Food review: The Disgruntled Chef (The Club)

SINGAPORE — Chef Daniel Sia’s sophomore outlet, The Disgruntled Chef, could not look more different from his first. Hidden within The Club Hotel along Ann Siang Road, it is decidedly more grown up and far more elegant. Black marble countertops, gilded edges, dark green banquettes and sombre grey walls say the space means business — well, in the sense that it hopes to attract a more sophisticated crowd with money to spend.

The menu sings the same song too: If you fancy some bread to start your meal, for example, you would have to fork out S$12. But it is not your regular loaf. For that price, you get either a truffle brioche with nori butter or some modernist-looking burnt onion charcoal bread with cream cheese foam and fish floss.

Still, while both are served deliciously warm and fluffy, S$12 seems a lot to pay for a fist-sized roll of brioche (the truffle part was also indiscernible). It is one thing if you’re on a corporate account, but if you’re a penny-pinching hipster moseying around the trendy part of Chinatown, your wad is better blown on small dishes such as the tomato and watermelon tartare (S$21). Chopped into tiny dices, the sweet watermelon and semi-dried tomatoes look like beef tartare on the plate. But in the mouth, it is a symphony of juicy, piquant and meaty flavours thanks to base notes of konbu and a sprinkling of homemade togarashi.

The wagyu beef carpaccio (S$26) also tips its hat to beef tartare. It is topped with slivers of tempura shallots, cep puree and a confit egg yolk the texture of soft cream cheese, great for anyone who gets freaked out at the thought of consuming a raw egg yolk.

The menu of big plates may stretch the wallet too. There are beef short ribs (S$38), cooked sous vide to a scrumptious uniform pink, then lightly battered in corn flour and fried so that its exterior is crisp. It sits on a bed of white kimchi and braising liquid reduced with some hot bean paste that takes it to the brink of being too salty.

On the other hand, the Maine lobster with chicken pot roast (S$56) could have used an extra jolt of flavour. Sure, it is an Instagram-worthy dish, with fried quail eggs draped across the coral lobster flesh and deftly cooked chicken. But it was let down by its monotonous flavours.

The restaurant has only been open for less than a month, so it is very likely that it is still finding its feet. It is a good thing its attractive decor and promising food are persuasive incentives for those with deep pockets. Otherwise, there are also the set lunch menus at S$38 for two courses and S$45 for three (although the dishes on these menus are different from those on the a la carte one). ANNETTE TAN

The Disgruntled Chef at The Club

Where: 28 Ann Siang Road. Telephone: 6808 2184. http://www.disgruntledchef.com

Opening hours: Mondays to Saturdays noon to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed on Sundays.

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