Food review: Kaiserhaus

Food of an empire past

Singapore — Up until the early 1900s, the Habsburg Empire stretched across Austria and much of Europe, including Poland, Romania, Northern Italy and Hungary. By marrying shrewdly and adopting cunningly, the Habsburg family gained prominence and power, and by the looks of the menu at new restaurant Kaiserhaus, a very diverse repertoire of cuisines.

Its dishes draw from the Empire’s rich history and in keeping with its period of reign — between 1848 and 1916 — has a distinctly Old World feel. When was the last time someone offered you beef in aspic (S$15), or, for that matter, anything in aspic?

Thankfully, the aspic in this aspect is not the bouncy, moulded jelly of early haute cuisine. Think instead a soft, beef-flavoured Jello just barely holding together with neatly diced cubes of beef and carrots made for spreading on soft Kaiser rolls or rye bread with butter.

This rich yet homespun quality extends to the tafelspitz (S$38). Perhaps most famous for being former emperor of Austria-Hungary Franz Josef I’s favourite dish, tafelspitz is little more than grain-fed beef rump and oyster blade simmered in a clear broth, with root vegetables and bone marrow. It does appear rather austere, but its flavours are deeply nourishing and soothing. The boiled meat is plain, but it is still succulent and well escorted by a bevy of side dishes such as creamed spinach (that was surprisingly light), rosti potatoes (these could have been crisper) and a mild horseradish sauce that brought some brightness of flavour.

We also sampled a beautifully cooked Bohemian pork roast (S$24) with fabulously crisp crackling. The hearty chunks of luscious meat came with a deeply-flavoured gravy and bread dumplings (like morsels of savoury bread pudding) that bulk up quickly in the belly. All this is cut through with much needed acidity from a tart galbelkraut (the Austrian version of sauerkraut).

No doubt, there is nothing light about this sort of Germanic fare, even at dessert. The recommended Emperor’s Pancakes (S$15), like an eggy French toast with rum-soaked raisins and plum compote, could double as a hearty breakfast — for two. The Mozart Dumplings (S$13) were lighter, but still too hefty after such a meaty meal. The best remedy: Come with a group of friends and share. ANNETTE TAN

Kaiserhaus

Where:

#02-06/03-06 Capitol Theatre

17 Stamford Road

Telephone:

6377 0013

Opening hours:

Sunday to Thursday 10.30am to midnight

Friday and Saturday 10.30am to 1am

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