Food review: The Royal Mail | 3.5/5 More classics redefined

SINGAPORE — Nestled on the second floor of a historical building that once served as a post office during Singapore’s colonial past, The Royal Mail is headed by 36-year-old Indonesian-Chinese chef Micail Chepi, who honed his French techniques under the tutelage of renowned chefs Gilles Marx and Eric Guilbert.

As such, the restaurant’s new menu is driven by Chepi’s classic French training and anchored by a kiss of Asian flavours. This is most evident in a plate of sweet, succulent sous vide Maine lobster (S$24) accompanied by Japanese pumpkin. The flavours would have worked harmoniously, too, if not for a somewhat misplaced crispy jamon iberico de Bellota that was too salty for the delicate dish.

Another creative starter is the pan-seared foie gras with deep-fried Camembert cheese (S$24), their dense flavours lifted by scented honey-mustard with Riesling jus.

The roast prime rib (S$58 for 280g), a signature at this restaurant, was carried over from the old menu. It’s a country-style hearty hunk of meat with a side of roast garlic bulb and Brussels sprouts topped with melted blue cheese, all served on a big, wooden board. There’s a bit of a chew but the flavours are simple and charming. The serving of beef short rib (S$36) is easily a crowd-pleaser with its similarly rustic and uncomplicated flavours.

If you’re here for a quick lunch, the deboned fish of the day (S$52) is a great way to avoid loading on the carbs and red meat. We had a supremely fresh and perfectly cooked sea bass, nicely paired with caper sauce and a squeeze of lemon. Set lunches are also available at S$35 for two courses and S$38 for three courses.

Desserts, though, are de rigeuer offerings with standouts such as the banoffee tart (S$13) and a more elegant Eton mess (S$15). Unfortunately, the chocolate fondant (S$18) was not fondant (being French for “melting”) at first, so we sent it back. The second try was a success: Moist with a molten core. And on the side, Tahitian vanilla ice cream and a sprinkling of raspberry chocolate crumble brought balance and contrast to this rich pudding.

Although the kitchen needs a little more time to find its feet, it’s clear The Royal Mail is aiming to incorporate more complexity of techniques and refinement in the presentation. KENNY LEONG

The Royal Mail Restaurant & Bar