Food review: The Royals Steakhouse

SINGAPORE — The major draw of The Royals Steakhouse is that it dispenses a tight menu of steaks, sides and burgers that adhere scrupulously to Islamic dietary precepts (it expects to receive Halal certification in late July). However, that comes with its own set of limitations.

For instance, the sauces that the steaks come with — caramelised onion, black pepper and mushroom — are each as thick, rich and old-school as Bisto gravy mix. “But because we can’t get Halal-certified meat bones or use wine in our food, we can’t make jus (the lighter French-style sauce),” said the restaurant’s consultant chef Jimmy Chok.

That said, those made-from-scratch sauces were nostalgically delicious and paired well with the steaks brought in from Australia and New Zealand (you can’t get American beef here, though). The budget-conscious should be satisfied with offerings such as a 180g Australian rib eye (S$26), which is relatively lean for its cut and has a soft mineral flavour. There is also a 150-day grain-fed Cote De Boeuf or rib of beef (S$68 for about 700g) that had sweet, earthy flavours and was cooked to juicy, dark pink tenderness.

The steaks are served with a simple green salad, with options for sides such as the Ala-Minute Crunchy Coleslaw (S$6) and sauteed mushrooms in balsamic dressing (S$8). The former features plenty of lightly-dressed shredded purple cabbage, while the latter — a rather dry mix-fry of Swiss brown and shitake mushrooms — was saved by its lovely smoky flavours.

While the menu promised “a succulent beef patty made with 150-day grain-fed Angus beef” in The Royals Bad Boy Burger (S$22), what arrived on our plate was a patty full of sinew and gristle that was tough to break down. Topped with caramelised onions, melted Emmenthal cheese, sweet relish and a sunny-side-up egg, it had potential, but still needs plenty of work.

In many ways, the burger is reflective of the month-old restaurant itself. With a bright open kitchen, cool hand-painted murals and earnest service, The Royals Steakhouse has a lot of potential as it cultivates a warm, friendly vibe. Hopefully, given time, it will find its footing and live up to its name. ANNETTE TAN

The Royals Steakhouse

Where: 10 Jalan Pisang. Telephone: 6291 3326. Opening hours: Mondays 11.30am to 10pm; Wednesdays to Sundays 11.30am to 10pm. Closed on Tuesdays.