Royal Pavilion | 3.5/5

SINGAPORE — Park Regis Singapore’s lobby restaurant has been transformed into a grand Cantonese dining room. At the kitchen’s helm is executive chef Chung Ho Shi formerly from Golden Peony at Conrad Centennial Singapore. His menu is largely classical, with some pretty excellent dim sum that includes har kau (S$5.80) laced with minced celery so that there is crunch and astringency with every bite, and a steamed diced vegetable dumpling (S$4.80) wrapped in a silky, translucent “crystal” skin that was so pure in flavour, it made us feel totally virtuous about ordering it.

The fried and baked offerings were also stellar. There was a feather-light but flavourful and almost creamy Crispy Shredded Radish Pastry Roll (S$4.50); and a Baked Swiss BBQ Snow Bun (S$4.50) filled with a tender yet not-too-fatty char siew and crowned by a crisp, and lightly sweet crust.

Like any Cantonese chef worth his double-boiled soups, Chef Chung also puts out an excellent roll call of roasted meats, including the Royal Smoked Duck (S$35 for a half portion; S$68 for a whole duck) that is smoked over lychee leaves and wood. The result is an aromatic bird with thin, crisp skin kissed with toffee-like flavours and succulent meat.

Speaking of double-boiled soups, Chung’s house brew of chicken with fish maw and Chinese herbs (S$25) had clean, deep flavours that comforted at the first sip. That same sense of purity of flavour was also evident in the Sauteed Seafood Duo Skewer (S$14) comprising a crystalline prawn and Hokkaido scallop held together by a tender asparagus spear. Sauced with a simple dressing of crabmeat and roe, it was the smoky, woodsy flavours of the grilled asparagus that tied the dish together, amplifying the delicately sweet-briny flavours of the seafood.

Chef Chung’s chastely flavoured dishes means that those with robust palates will want a little more oomph. That’s where his lao gan tie (old godfather) chilli sauce comes in. Much like XO sauce, it is made with fresh silver fish, dried prawns and chillies. This umami bomb perks up dishes like the wok-fried fish noodles (noodles made of fish paste) served with lobster (S$28) and the fried carrot cake (S$8.50). Even if you don’t order these dishes, the restaurant is happy to supply little saucers of the lao gan tie chilli sauce to complement your meal.

There is no doubt that the food at Royal Pavilion is elegant and expertly created, and the sort of classic mainland Cantonese fare that is hard to come by these days. Happily, the prices here are down-to-earth too, especially the dim sum dishes, which makes lunchtime a good time to check out this new entrant. ANNETTE TAN

3.5/5

Royal Pavilion

Where: Level 1, Park Regis Singapore

23 Merchant Road

Telephone: 6818 8851

Opening hours: 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm daily