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Sugarhall | 4/5

SINGAPORE — If you have been to Jigger & Pony, you would be familiar with its classic cocktails crafted with flair and precision. The same thread of craftsmanship runs across its sister property Sugarhall next door.

SINGAPORE — If you have been to Jigger & Pony, you would be familiar with its classic cocktails crafted with flair and precision. The same thread of craftsmanship runs across its sister property Sugarhall next door.

The concept of a rum-and-grill house was born one night during a barbecue its owners Indra Kantono and Gan Guo Yi had with their Jigger & Pony team. Aki Eguchi, who also oversees Jigger & Pony, is responsible for the cocktail list here, which offers inspired drinks based mostly on a mind-boggling selection of more than 60 rums from all over the world. Polo Seah, who was previously cooking at Skirt at W Singapore, heads the kitchen, turning out equally inventive dishes that defy any attempt at conventional categorisation.

Seah’s cooking displays an acute and intricate understanding of flavour composition, contrast and balance. The best examples of this are in tightly balanced starters such as the rainbow trout (S$16) and the roasted beetroot (S$10). The fish is cured in-house, cooked sous vide and served sandwiched between spears of yellow watermelon, with some fennel and passion fruit foam, as well as a dill pesto dressing. The latter features beetroot prepared two ways (roasted and pickled), combined with mascarpone and strewn with both fresh and fried kale.

Sizable tiger prawns (S$18) come tossed with herb butter and just enough Szechuan pepper to give the dish an edge. Plain and unadorned, the dish has easy-going flavours that make it very likeable.

The kitchen takes great pride in preparing its sauces and curing its meats, so don’t miss out on the excellent cold cuts (S$28). There is enough on the platter to serve a party of three or four, with duck prosciutto, beef pastrami, country pate, piccalilli and a bowl of very fine chicken liver mousse crowned with poached grapes.

Meat dishes are equally impressive. The Cape Grim grass-fed hanger steak (S$24), done medium rare, is executed superbly. Its meat was moist and chewy, served with a house-made chimichurri sauce on the side. There are also heaps of flavour in the spring chicken (S$28), which is marinated with rosemary brine and roasted to succulent perfection — even the breast meat is juicy and yields easily to the bite.

And then, there’s the brilliant array of sides to share. Favourites include grilled leek (S$14) paired with miticrema (a Spanish sheep’s milk cheese) and a 65°C egg; roasted and fried chunky pumpkin (S$12) studded with cold mozzarella; and creamy mushrooms (S$10), a dish consisting of enoki and button mushrooms tossed in a delectable creamy sauce and presented with a cloud of lemon thyme foam.

Like the food, the drinks here are confident and playful, marked by a great respect for produce. It may be a casual joint, but make no mistake — the food is as fine as it is fun. KENNY LEONG

Sugarhall

Where: 102 Amoy Street; Telephone: 6222 9102; Opening hours: Mondays to Saturdays, 6pm to midnight

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