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Zott’s | 4/5

SINGAPORE — The first thing that greets you as you step into Zott’s is an ox taxidermy. Called Hieronymus, it’s the pet of restaurant owner Christian Zott, and acts as the dining outfit’s mascot and centrepiece.

SINGAPORE — The first thing that greets you as you step into Zott’s is an ox taxidermy. Called Hieronymus, it’s the pet of restaurant owner Christian Zott, and acts as the dining outfit’s mascot and centrepiece.

If that’s a little out of the ordinary, then consider that Zott’s serves up Alpine cuisine, and it’s also an art gallery of sorts, with paintings and sculptures that range from the mildly unsettling to the outright grotesque.

Luckily, the food here is extraordinary. Led by head chef Lorenz-Maria Griesser, the kitchen turns out plates that are elegant, beautifully orchestrated, and even dramatic. There are a couple of appetisers you must order: The anchois Provencale (S$22) and the fennel salad topped with orange segments, olive spheres and goat cheese mousse (S$26). The former has pickled anchovies and a sweet sorbet that come together beautifully, with the cold melon sorbet’s nuanced sweetness lending just enough contrast to the fish’s umami richness.

The latter showcases technique, flair and a crafty balance of flavours. The touch of aniseed from the fennel, the distinctive saltiness of goat cheese, the vegetal savoury notes of the olives and the bright citrusy character of orange blended together like a fine ensemble, with not one flavour dominating.

The Bouillabaisse Marseillaise (S$87), designed for sharing, feature four different types of fish. Among them is red scorpion fish, the defining ingredient of an authentic Marseilles bouillabaisse. Each piece of fish is lean, firm, sweet, tender and perfectly cooked, served in a deep and flavourful broth.

Under Hieronymus’ watchful eyes, the kitchen also makes a superb tellerfleisch (S$75), a traditional Bavarian dish of boiled beef served over three courses: Baked oyster blade with parsley dip and tartar sauce; an oxtail and bone marrow raviolo in a hearty meat broth; and haunch and prime rib sided by freshly grated horseradish. Each course is meticulously prepared and plated, showcasing balance and refinement even in simple meats. The only blemish was in the meat broth, which had a slightly acrid undertone.

The griessbrei (S$16), a soft and light-as-air semolina pudding, dusted with cinnamon sugar and served with pear ice cream was an ideal closure to the meal.

Chef Griesser certainly thinks like an artist, composing plates that enthrall, surprise and excite; and painting with determined strokes that are as thought provoking as they are flavourful. Kenny Leong

4/5

Zott’s

Where: 97 Amoy Street

Telephone: 6223 0913

Opening hours:

Mondays to Fridays: 11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 11.30pm

Saturdays: 6pm to 11.30pm

Closed on Sundays

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