Gaia Ristorante & Bar | 4/5

SINGAPORE — Although Italian fine dining restaurant Gaia has been around for a few years, it has had a rather low profile.

But the Goodwood Park Hotel tenant recently underwent a revamp and now sports a fresh look. Its beautifully renovated dining room is divided into different spaces: An inner courtyard reminiscent of a garden, a glass-enclosed wine cellar-cum-private dining room, an intimate inner dining room with plush leather booth seats, as well as an al fresco garden terrace complete with whirling ceiling fans.

Gaia has also introduced a brand- new team, with general manager Paolo Colzani, who has worked at top restaurants such as Les Amis, Iggy’s and Garibaldi, keeping an eye on things. Helming the kitchen is talented 27-year-old chef Emanuele Faggi from Tuscany, who is in Asia for the first time, following several years at Milan’s two-Michelin-star Cracco Ristorante by celebrity chef Carlo Cracco.

At Gaia, the young chef crafts produce-driven modern Italian cuisine injected with an innovative flair. One of his appetisers showcases the beauty of raw Sicilian prawns (S$38), their natural sweetness mingling with warm ricotta cheese, aromatic basil oil and cherry tomato.

The pasta dishes are not your typical selection, piqued with some innovative surprises. The doppio ravioli (S$24), or double-filled ravioli, comprises Parma ham on one side and parmesan on the other. The large stuffed pasta is served laced with syrupy aged balsamic reduction and white balsamic foam. The rigatoni with Boston lobster (S$34) is another recommended dish. The al dente pasta tubes are bathed in rich lobster bisque and topped with juicy lobster meat.

A real standout (and not only because of its price tag) is the torchi or pressed pigeon (S$90) prepared table-side. This complex dish was first developed in the 19th century in Paris’ venerable Tour d’Argent restaurant. Here, the Bresse pigeon is partially roasted and seasoned. The legs and breast are sliced and set aside, while the remaining meat, bones and skin are placed in a specially-made press to extract the blood and juices. This extract is then thickened and flavoured with liver, butter and Marsala wine.

When ready, the dish is served with this rich sauce, some prunes, mushrooms, walnuts and sea asparagus. If this is all too extravagant for you, opt for the grilled Dutch milk-fed veal chop (S$58) served with bone marrow-hazelnut sauce, mushrooms and polenta.

End the meal with a simple light and summery dessert of slow-cooked peaches with amaretto mousse (S$14). The soft juicy fruit melds perfectly with the refreshing peach ice cream. CHUNG YI

4/5

Gaia Ristorante & Bar is at 22 Scotts Road, Goodwood Park Hotel. Telephone: 6735 9937. Opening hours: Monday to Friday noon to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10.30pm. Saturday 6pm to 10.30pm. Closed on Sunday.