Jiang-Nan Chun’s Peking Duck is an indulgent masterpiece worth the price tag

SINGAPORE — An excellent Peking Duck is a treat. There is that dramatic entrance — it appears like a bronzed A-list star in a stretch limousine, glistening with delicious potential. Then comes the showmanship, as the waiter or chef gives it the proper respect, skillfully carving it up to produce the crackling crisp aromatic skin that the dish is known so well for.

And at Four Season Hotel’s chinese restaurant Jiang-Nan Chun, its signature Peking Duck (introduced in February as part of a new menu following a gorgeous renovation job of the restaurant) is a meticulously prepared masterpiece. After being marinated and painstakingly air-pumped (for more than 14 hours) to loosen the skin away from the fat, the duck goes into a specially constructed wood-fired oven where it is smoked for another six hours over mesquite wood instead of the more typically used lychee or apple wood.

“We choose to use mesquite wood as it burns at a higher temperature, which is a more gradual process that produces a smokier and more fragrant flavour,” explained Jiang-Nan Chun’s executive chef Alan Chan. “We find that the skin and meat are also better cooked to our standards — the skin is crispier and the meat more succulent.”

The resulting beautifully browned bird is an exceptionally delectable dish. A chef himself will personally carve the bird, portioning the best bits out first. “The skin of the breast is considered the best as it is the crispiest part and only six to eight pieces of it can be sliced off,” said chef Chan. The skin should be eaten only with sugar to bring out its complex smokiness.

Chef Chan also explained that there are actually two ways to enjoy Peking Duck. The traditional Peking style — whereby the duck is more thickly sliced with meat attached to the skin — or the Hong Kong style of having it more thinly sliced to better savour the skin. Another difference is the sauce. The Beijing style tends to favour a saltier flavour while the Hong Kong style prefers a sweeter taste. At Jiang-Nan Chun, both are provided.

The accompanying condiments further elevate the dish with garnishes of cucumber from England (“crunchier and sweeter”, according to chef Chan) to the scallion crepes to wrap your Peking Duck slices in, in addition to the usual plain ones. And there is the famed piece de resistance of a side of sevruga caviar. It is an indulgent but well-thought-out touch as the caviar adds a richer umami punch to the duck when you eat both together.

“Eating a Peking Duck should be an experience — there are many parts to it and you can take your time to enjoy it,” enthused Chef Chan. And the whole grand experience here makes the S$98 cost of the Peking Duck seem more like a steal.

Jiang-Nan Chun is at level 2, Four Seasons Hotel Singapore; 190 Orchard Blvd. Tel: 6831 7220. The hotel is having 25 per cent off its Peking Duck from now till Aug 31. Advance reservation is required. Remember to mention “Peking Duck 25 per cent” during reservations.