Mykonos On The Bay | 3/5

SINGAPORE — Mykonos On The Bay, the Greek taverna in the middle of the Quayside Isle, is managed by Executive Chef Mauro Muroni and General Manager Gerri Sottile, both of whom have worked in Greek tavernas on the Hellenic isles.

Swanky address aside, there’s nothing flashy here. The menu focuses on homey, honest, traditional Mediterranean flavours, whipped up by the two Greek chefs from Crete and Thessaloniki who have been brought in to run the kitchen and ensure that the food remains authentic.

Ease into your meal by sharing the mezedes or small plates of starters and salads. We were served a platter of pita bread with three dips (S$27) comprising a creamy hummus made with split peas, caramelised onions and pickled capers; eggplant tapenade flavoured with ouzo; and a full-bodied taramosalata, a salty spread made from carp roe. The vivid flavour of lemon juice and splash of extra virgin olive oil balanced the richness of this smooth dip.

We next tucked into some sardines, marinated in lemon zest, star anise and thyme (S$18.50), which were mildly briny with a soft texture and perked up further with the acidity of the lemon juice. Strewn with cherry tomatoes and arugula, this dish is ideal for those who want a light, healthy starter.

If you don’t mind sharp and salty cheese, go for the bougiourdi or freshly baked feta cheese (S$14.90). The distinctly pungent flavour of this classic Greek cheese is tempered with a sprinkling of aromatic oregano and chilli flakes. The chilli didn’t have that much of a kick, but we happily scooped up the warm cheese with some pita and allowed the flavours to meld together.

The Octopus Two Ways (S$18.90), composed of grilled tentacles and marinated octopus dressed with mustard, lemon, onions and garlic, was another superb ensemble. It was livened up with diced peppers and balsamic vinegar.

The saganaki graviera cheese (S$15.90) was pan-fried with a reduction of ouzo (anise flavoured liqueur) and drizzled with lemon juice, which uplifted the firm, mildly salty cheese. Although the ouzo’s licorice flavour wasn’t very pronounced, the drizzling of wine vinegar reduction just before serving rendered a touch of sweetness.

We found the slices of house-smoked pork belly (S$27.50) a little bit dry and bland. The moussaka, though, was moist and robust, crammed with minced beef and eggplant, and smothered in creamy bechamel.

There are vegetarian options too, like Gemista (S$22.90), oven-baked baldo (short-grain) rice with Greek herbs, Roma tomatoes and yogurt mint sauce.

Desserts, however, are not their strong point. The baclava (S$15.90) filled with chocolate, orange zest and walnuts, was sweet but dense and rather hard to bite into. On hot days, ask for the Pagoto Giaoyrti or Greek yogurt ice cream with acacia honey and walnuts (S$7.90), prepared fresh daily.

Overall, we felt that the seafood dishes stood out more. For a lunch or dinner, you’re likely to spend about S$45 to S$50 a person, and wines are priced from S$70 per bottle. CHUNG YI

Mykonos On The Bay

Where: 31 Ocean Way, #01-10 Quayside Isle, Sentosa Cove

Telephone: 6334 3818

Opening hours:

6pm to 11pm (Mon to Wed)

Noon to 2pm and 6pm to 11pm (Thurs and Fri)

11am to 11pm (Sat and Sun)