Roundhouse Pizza Bar & Grill | 3/5

SINGAPORE — Despite the initial celebrity buzz that surrounded the launch of two-month-old Roundhouse Pizza, Bar & Grill, there has been a generally positive nod towards the restaurant’s staple of European classics and aromatic grills. Roundhouse is a first-time foray into the hard-hitting world of dining for local actor and Gold 90.5FM DJ Vernetta Lopez (with silent partner and fellow radio jock Mike Kasem), and it has received praises for its unfussy yet no-less noteworthy pizzas.

There were even attempts by competitors to steal the secret to the latter’s uniquely crisp dough, said Lopez’s husband and co-restaurateur Wayne Gladwin. (The British software engineer, a hobby-chef himself, had a hand in the tweaked dough.) The pies’ firm crust is evident in the Loco Lopez (S$24), which packs an acceptably liberal lashing of heat (via a combination of jalapenos and chilli padi) with cheese (mozzarella and a sharper cheddar), salami and some capers. And this makes it easy to gorge on a slice like how New Yorkers at rush hour would. It is a comfortable one-handed affair, but while its thin crackling does also give way to a nice and slightly chewy bite, the dough was, for me, a tad too crusty in some areas — chafing the roof of my mouth.

What’s more important, I suppose, is that the finished product can stand the test of time — it maintains its crispiness and does not get soggy — not to mention the 30 minutes or so it might take for a freshly-made pie to reach one’s doorstep. (Yes, they offer a pizza delivery service — a smart move, considering the restaurant’s somewhat obscured location a short jog from Turf City.)

Still, Roundhouse is not your typically smoky dive, akin to those often defined by a menu of charred grub and a greasy spoon. There are, surprisingly, decidedly delicate dishes. The tuna tartare (S$20), for instance, is not your typical find. Here, it is an inspired Aussie rendition that pairs a lush maguro with avocado, dressed in a combination of mirin and wasabi, and a lime dressing. While there was clear intention to accentuate the natural flavours of this quality fish, it was lost against a slightly heavy hand with the marinade, and this was compounded by the addition of sesame seeds and a serving of corn chips on the side. The pulpo (S$20), conversely, was a wonderfully guileless example of grilled octopus seasoned with lemon juice and citrus salt; its savoury sea-bound flavours were unmistakeable.

These dishes are part of a diverse list of small plate considerations that include calamari frits, Angus beef chilli con carne, and even a scallop ceviche. But there were similarly sundry choices for mains too. It was hard to fault the fragrant charcoal-grilled king prawns (S$32), but not so easy to love the pork belly cassoulet (S$36), which was a tad mushy and surprisingly one-dimensional in spite of its richness. It veers slightly from the French classic, with the addition of cured pork and chorizo, and green apples for an acerbic lift. But the balance was not precise enough making it a tad too tangy, particularly when slow-cooked with three types of beans (including the garbanzo and kidney).

That said, the Euro-inspired-Western menu does have enough hits and memorable classic renditions — not to mention an authentic British Sunday Roast with prime rib and duck fat roasted potatoes to boot — that should satisfy even a family of celebrity diners. DON MENDOZA

Roundhouse Pizza Bar & Grill

Where: 100 Turf Club Road

Telephone: 6466 0966, 6466 2466 (pizza delivery)

Opening Hours:

Weekdays: 5pm to midnight

Weekends: Noon to midnight