&Sons | 4/5

SINGAPORE — If the lure of the sumptuous teal-blue stucco walls and rich furnishings doesn’t draw the crowds to the new &Sons, its very egalitarian prices probably will. The latest restaurant by Beppe De Vito — who is behind well-known Italian eateries Il Lido and Latteria — is fashioned after a bacaro, a workingman’s pub in Venice where snacks called cicheti are served in small plates along with small glasses of Italian wine.

Its location at China Square Central is perfect for capturing this spirit. And it seems De Vito has paid special attention to ensuring that the food remains affordable enough so that diners can return time and again without feeling the pinch. Prices start from S$8 for a dish of summer vegetable cannolo and peak at S$26 for a wagyu beef tagliata (the fancy Italian name for steak).

At a time when eating out seems increasingly expensive by the week, this should be a welcome move for those who spend a lot of time at work in the CBD. The fact that the dishes are mostly rich with ingredients like cheese, cream and sea urchin also adds to the good value since they’ll fill you up quick.

Drawing from his South Italian roots, De Vito has come up with some unique dishes such a purple potato ravioli filled with cheese fondue (S$9). In theory, this should be a heavy dish, yet the ravioli are remarkably light and translucent, like Chinese crystal dumplings, with a silky cheese filling that oozes as you cut into them.

Its richness is counterpointed by some sweet balsamic vinegar drizzled onto the bottom of the plate, and a handful of crisp breadcrumbs for textural contrast. It’s certainly a lot of thought and work put into a small plate, so its S$9 price tag seems like a bargain in these pricey times.

Similarly, a simple dish of grilled asparagus (S$9) is elevated with the addition of a creamy anchovy sauce and fried garlic flakes. Given a quick blast in the Josper grill so that it is lightly charred in all the right places, the asparagus are smoky, a little crisp and very succulent.

The menu is pretty extensive and out of the spread we sampled, standouts included the wagyu beef carpaccio topped with creamy flakes of raspadura cheese (a young Parmesan cheese) and the crab tagliolini spiced with nduja, a soft, spreadable salami that suffuses the pasta with a spicy, smoky edge.

These hearty dishes are supplemented by a range of salami and prosciutto that is made in-house, as well as a range of artisanal Italian cheeses, all of which are served throughout the day. Their natural pairings are classic Venetian cocktails such as the now-trendy Negroni (S$12) and Americano (S$12) made using Antica Formula, what is widely regarded as Italy’s finest vermouth; and a list of natural and biodynamic wines at “near retail prices”. ANNETTE TAN

&Sons

#01-19 China Square Central

20 Cross Street

Tel: 6221 3937

Opening hours:

Monday to Friday: 11.30am to midnight

Saturday: 5.30pm to 1am

Closed on Sunday