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Sushi chef Kenjiro Hashida opens new desserts-meets-art restaurant

As the only son of a master sushi chef, the art of making excellent sushi may be Chef Kenjiro “Hatch” Hashida’s birthright. But the 35-year-old owner of Hashida Sushi Singapore has got something a bit sweeter in mind for his next restaurant: Desserts.

As the only son of a master sushi chef, the art of making excellent sushi may be Chef Kenjiro “Hatch” Hashida’s birthright. But the 35-year-old owner of Hashida Sushi Singapore has got something a bit sweeter in mind for his next restaurant: Desserts.

Called Hashida Garo, it is slated to open in April just two floors above his first restaurant at the Mandarin Gallery. And it all began with the playful thought of offering a traditional tea service between lunch and dinner.

It’s an unusual logical leap of faith considering that in Japan, it wouldn’t make sense to serve dessert after a sushi meal, which is often finished with a serving of seasonal fruits, admitted Hatch-san. But to do so in Singapore would be “understandable”.

“Japanese food is not only fish and beef,” he explained. “I wanted to (showcase) the four seasons, vegetables, flowers, everything.”

As such, Hashida Garo (“garo” is a Japanese term for gallery) will be his blank canvas of sorts, a multi-concept space anchored by a tea room that specialises in the traditional confectionary wagashi, alongside a few tweaked interpretations.

“If I push to sell (only) original Japanese desserts, it might be pushing it too much,” he said, explaining how it would be easier for diners of different cultures to understand and appreciate these unique Japanese sweets — traditionally made with azuki beans, gelatine from seaweed and wasamboto (a fine domestic sugar) — if they were paired or fused with something familiar. The ingredients in his famous macarons at Hashida Sushi Singapore, for example, are “50 per cent Japanese”, and the inclusion of a mochi-like traditional treat at Hashida Garo is partly inspired by his discovery of the local ang ku kueh — made from gluten flour, this Japanese sweet is coloured a pleasing green using yomogi herb and filled with white bean paste flavoured with yuzu juice and zest.

The tea and dessert menus are available throughout the day, from 10am to 10pm, so that prospective diners at other nearby Japanese establishments such as Ippudo and Suju — not to mention at his own Hashida Sushi — have the option to visit before or after their meals. “I might even offer diners (at Hashida Sushi) a voucher for tea or dessert that is valid for two days, which they can choose to use another day.”

He is also considering tea with dessert sets for diners who are “not familiar with Japanese tea culture”. Takeaway pre-packed items will be sold alongside bento boxes, as well as premium condiments such as artisanal soya sauces, rare sakes and non-alcoholic drinks, seasonal seafood and vegetables, dried foodstuff, and even selected lifestyle products.

Similar to his sushi restaurant, the 2,000 sq ft space will feature limited seating. Only at Garo, the 26 seats surround a “tatami space” where the chef can entertain other aspects of Japanese tea culture or introduce new desserts.

“It’s like my stage … and I’m like Steve Jobs,” he quipped. True to the “gallery” concept, this is where Hatch will be able to present his inspirations. “(There are) no rules … I can do desserts, I can do tea, I can also (offer) sake tapas and maybe breakfast ... and maybe brunch.”

But there’s even more set to take place at Hashida Garo — local and Japanese artists will also be invited to showcase their works. “After I graduated from culinary school, I didn’t work (in the kitchen) because I wanted to be an artist … I drew, painted and sold (my art) on the street. I wanted to have my own exhibition but (rental) was super expensive,” he recalled, adding that he is also considering the venue’s wall space rent-free to artists or even professional doodlers.

And while a fashion show might be pushing the “no rules” idea to the edge, he has not ruled out the importance of looking the part: He and his staff will be wearing shirts by Hitoyoshi, a company with a 150-year history in shirt-making in Kumamoto prefecture.

“I want people to feel like this is a gallery, not a restaurant,” he said.

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