‘Tis the season to get hairy

SINGAPORE — It may be too early to say how the hairy crab season will fare, even if fans are already hankering for this autumn indulgence. But like it is for any diner with a taste for this adored crustacean, the fact that there are already a handful of top restaurants hawking the tasty critters, bolstered by some inspired new creations, is reason enough to get started on that annual splurge.

Of course, October is when the female of the species is at its most delicious, while November is the month to savour the males. Still, according to some chefs, this year’s harvest is unpredictable, given the “adverse weather conditions”. So if you’ve been particularly picky about the feted origins of the crabs you prefer, Putien’s executive chef Billy Li, for one, feels you needn’t be. “Hairy crab aficionados are well aware of the two famous lakes that produce hairy crabs — the Taihu Lake and the Yangcheng Lake. There is no tangible difference between the qualities of these two varieties”, he said. “In fact, Taihu Lake sits on the upper stream of Yangcheng Lake, which naturally makes Taihu Lake more ideal breeding grounds for hairy crabs.”

This is all of course less contentious or palpable, for that matter, when the crab is incorporated into a sumptuous dish, which seems to be what more chefs have been inspired to do.

Where: Tung Lok Signatures

What: The specially designed menu is a medley of six distinct dishes. It includes crisp-fried prawn steak served with fresh fruits to start, and a serving of deep-fried pork belly with wasabi and white wine sauce, which follows a course of Jiang Su hairy crab (approximately 220g) prepared the way purist prefer, steamed. The second course is a Beijing-style braised dish that comprises shredded sea cucumber, mini abalone and fish maw served in Bamboo Cup. And, yes, you can opt to have it without shark’s fin, which would mean more fish maw. Or you can have the dish replaced with a pick from their many signature dishes. If you have got a big appetite, try the braised crystal noodles with hairy crab meat and roe (S$22). Steamed hairy crabs are available at S$58 each (225-250g).

When: Until Nov 30.

Price: S$98 (usual S$129) per person for six-course menu

Reservations: www.tunglok.com.

Where: Jiang-Nan Chun, Four Seasons Hotel Singapore

What: With a range of accoutrements to allow every part of the hairy crab to be relished, Chef Alan Chan’s a la carte menu or his six-course meal will satiate the most discerning diner. While the piece de resistance is the individually portioned steamed crab, you can’t ignore the steamed minced pork xiao long bao with hairy crab meat and Osetra caviar; the nourishing double-boiled superior bird’s nest with hairy crab meat and shrimp dumpling; or the baked crab shell filled with crab meat, forest mushrooms and onions.

When: Until Oct 31

Price: S$168 per person for the six-course menu

Reservations: 6831 7220

Where: Li Bai Cantonese Restaurant, Sheraton Towers Singapore

What: This prized autumn delicacy is given a full-flavoured new spin in the form of a new dish at Li Bai — the braised beancurd and prawns topped with hairy crab meat and crab roe. Another must-try is the braised vegetarian rolls topped with the sweet succulence of hairy crab meat and crab roe. Round off the experience with hot ginger tea.

When: Oct 16 to Nov 30

Price: Dishes range from S$18 to S$88 per person. The traditionally steamed hairy crab is priced at S$58 per piece.

Reservations: 6839 5623

Where: Putien

What: To celebrate the Taihu hairy crab, the restaurant is serving a claypot dish that boasts silky bean curd slathered in a broth of creamy hairy crab roe. But if you’re particular about having it on its own, remember that male crabs will only be available in early November.

When: Until Nov 30

Price: S$32 a female crab; S$42 for a male

Reservations: www.putien.com

Where: Taste Paradise

What: Taste Paradise joins the group’s Paradise Pavilion and two Canton Paradise outlets in serving up the season’s hottest crustacean. At the former, a choice of two six-course hairy crab set menus proffer a few clever ways to savour the hairy crab, from a simple beer-infused hairy crab, steamed; to a dish of braised hairy crab roe with edamame tofu and scallop. Complementing the star ingredient are mouth-watering dishes like wok-fried ramen with Kurobuta pork cheek, and baked spare ribs marinated in vinegar.

When: Until Nov 30

Price: S$138 and S$168 (min. two persons)

Reservations: 6509 9660

Where: Min Jiang

What: Besides the classic steamed renditions, also available are a Cantonese-inspired steamed hairy crab with glutinous rice served in bamboo basket (S$78) as well as an ensemble of sweet crab meat and creamy roe braised in superior stock paired with springy green bean noodles (S$78). Unique adaptations at Min Jiang at One-North include a serving of hairy crab and Chinese wine en papillote ($78 per piece), which accentuates the crab’s flavours. Min Jiang and Min Jiang at One-North also offer two six-course set menus, which include hairy crab dishes, and the restaurants’ signature fare.

When: Oct 14 to Nov 30

Price: S$108 and S$118 per person (minimum two persons)

Reservations: 6730 1704 (Min Jiang); 6774 0122

(Min Jiang at One-North)

WHERE: Yan Ting

WHAT: Executive chef Mak Kip Fu has designed two eight-course set menus to complement this perennial delight, which will be served alongside lush dishes such as a hot and sour soup with lobster, and pan-seared scallop served with shrimp mouse in the “exclusive” set menu. Highlights from the “luxury” set menu include stir-fried shrimps with Lon Jing tea leaves, and pan-roasted rack of lamb with the chef’s signature coffee glaze. Individual crabs are priced S$60 per 200g crab and S$98 per 250g crab.

WHEN: From Oct 21 to Dec 15

PRICE: S$148 and S$188 per person

RESERVATIONS: 6506 6887

Additional reporting by Genevieve Loh