Why more places are feeding the gluten-free trend

SINGAPORE — The trend may have taken off in the United States, but across the Pacific, a push for gluten-free foods is slowly but surely gaining momentum.

The idea of a gluten-free diet has become somewhat fashionable, even among non-sufferers — perhaps in the same way our love for kale and quinoa has grown.

This can be seen as more restaurants here — and not only health-food eateries and speciality stores — grow more resolute in their efforts to provide for those who are gluten intolerant.

Take Open Door Policy (ODP) by the Spa Esprit Group (SEG), which is the first modern bistro in Singapore to offer contemporary comfort dishes that are 100 per cent gluten- and dairy-free. This is a recent and complete overhaul of the menu, and an initiative inspired by the few and limited offerings on the market, said an SEG spokesman.

After much research, its chefs Ryan Clift and Daniele Sperindio have come up with a menu that should surprise even the non-gluten intolerant, proffering dishes such as the vegan macaroni pasta with portobello bolognese gratin, which tastes like a lighter version of mac and cheese. These dishes are the kind that reflect ODP’s signature style of comfort cooking and yet are completely gluten- and dairy-free.

Fermentation is a key technique used to bring out the desired flavour profile, which also means the food here is probiotic, and why diners will not feel bloated, Sperindio explained.

The macaroni dish for example involves a variation of fermentation techniques and temperature treating with ingredients such as nutritional yeast. Nutritional yeast, a component that is already popular in vegan cooking, is used to achieve the flavours of cheese and butter. For the flavour and texture of the sauce, portobello mushrooms are used as a substitute.

Fat is also replaced with extra virgin coconut oil, and dairy is replaced with house-made almond milk and soy milk. Corn starch and arrowroot powder are used to replace all the flour to help the team achieve the effect of an all-purpose flour.

The dishes prove that gluten-free dishes do not have to be limited to pompous bowls of superfoods dressed in a hodgepodge of gourmet accoutrements. Gluten is, after all, limited to a select group of foods, such as bread and pastries (especially those made with wheat flour), malt beverages, salad dressings and some soy sauce (such as those made with malt), and types of noodles (those made purely with rice flour or buckwheat are fine).

DELECTABLY WHOLESOME

“Gluten-free diets may have become popular in recent years as the latest fad diet to potentially shed excess weight, but most people may not necessarily have to avoid this protein,” said certified health coach Melody Chong, who had studied at the Institute for Integrative Nutrition in the US.

The only ones who should be concerned with avoiding gluten, she said, are those with celiac disease and gluten sensitivity. “The former is an auto-immune condition, while gluten sensitivity is related to a body reaction to gluten.”

She warned that while this diet choice has become a trendy diet in Singapore, with people thinking it will help them lose weight, not all gluten-free foods are created equal or with weight-loss in mind.

“The manufactured gluten-free items with long shelf lives are the key ones to avoid — they may not be enriched but are often higher in sugar and starches, for example,” Chong pointed out.

“I usually prepare my own meals at home, and they are often gluten-free. But on days when I feel like eating out at a restaurant, I have a few go-to places, such as The Living Cafe on Sixth Avenue, Sunny Choice at the Rail Mall and Cedele, for my gluten-free fix.” She explained how they would use lettuce leaves to replace buns in their “burgers”, dehydrated flax vegetable for the pizza crust, and zucchini strips to make the “lasagne”.

ONLY NATURAL

Chong pointed out how most foods are naturally gluten-free. Which is exactly what more restaurants, such as Angela May Food Chapters, have focused their efforts on, providing wholesome yet delicious options where possible. “We offer a lot of gluten-free items on the menu, but these items are naturally gluten-free,” May affirmed. “I haven’t removed gluten or substituted it in any dish.”

For instance, the white bean puree in her main dish of pork collar, she said, provides more protein and flavour, but is made with only Italian white beans and olive oil. She shared that she has seen more diners asking for gluten-free dishes, but added that there would be no need to replace any of the ingredients in her dishes to satisfy diners who do not suffer from gluten sensitivity.

Chef Emmanuel Stroobant also noted an increase in the demand for gluten-free dishes, which is why his team at restaurant Saint Pierre conceived the menu with the idea of being able to offer a gluten- or dairy-free option for pretty much every dish. “We have at least two gluten-free requests per week and only occasional requests for dairy-free (dishes),” he added.

“Aside from the bread, 95 per cent of the menu at Saint Pierre is gluten-free. As such, it is difficult to list the most popular items, but I would say that our lobster (with veal jus and braised celeriac) and the cod dishes (such as cod in oxtail consomme) are very popular.”

Suffice it to say, the popularity of gluten-free dining has outgrown its principal function, winning fans across a range of discerning diners — from the healthy eater to the fussy gourmand.