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See Canberra in a new light

CANBERRA — With the launch of direct Singapore Airlines flights to Canberra last year, the time was right to rediscover the Australian capital after my last visit eight years ago, via coach from Sydney.

CANBERRA — With the launch of direct Singapore Airlines flights to Canberra last year, the time was right to rediscover the Australian capital after my last visit eight years ago, via coach from Sydney.

The sunny skies, on a cool winter morning, heralded a promising start to my three-day stay. Besides the capital’s grand historical, political and cultural monuments and beneath its staid capital veneer are more pleasant surprises waiting to be discovered.

The city is undergoing a metamorphosis of sorts, with construction work on a 12km light rail system taking place. New hotels, restaurants, cafes, bars and retail malls have also sprung up giving the city a fresh vibe.

 

CITY GEMS

 

Cupping for coffee

Ona Coffee, Canberra’s largest speciality coffee roaster, opened The Cupping Room (no, it is not a Chinese massage salon) in 2013 to educate coffee drinkers on the finer points of appreciating the brew. “Cupping” is the process used by coffee roasters and growers to compare the flavour of different varieties without bias.

We sat through a 40-minute session tasting seven types of coffee of varying flavours and strengths. Thanks to 27-year-old head barista Isaac Kim, who shelved his ambitions to become a doctor in favour of a career in coffee, we learnt about the origins and intricacies of coffee making. Each participant was given a “cupping form” listing the grading categories — roast, aroma and purity — with further sub-sections. Ona Coffee engages in a fairtrade model and the most sustainable practices wherever possible with growers in Africa, India and South America. Its coffee blends have won awards for the best roast and best expresso. Cupping sessions for the public can be booked in advance at A$80 (S$86) per session for up to 8 people.

 

Cold and creamy Durian pops

The suburb of Braddon, described by The New York Times as a “decidedly hipster underbelly’, is home to trendy eateries and retail spaces. Frugii Dessert Laboratory is a chic spin on an ice cream store that takes pride in concocting various flavours from scratch on its own premises, consciously avoiding the use of commercial colouring and flavours. Vegans and those on gluten-free and nut-free diets are not forgotten. Among the seasonal flavours on offer are black truffle and lemon myrtle.

“Believe it or not, our durian ice cream is the most popular,” beamed co-owner Edna Marshall. Introduced on Easter this year, the durian paddle pop is covered in a lychee jelly which helps to mask the strong durian odour.

 

Monstrous Milkshakes

I needed no nudging to stop at Patissez, home of the famous Instagram-worthy Freakshake. Creators Anna and Gina Petridis, contestants of Australia’s reality TV show My Kitchen Rules, opened Patissez in 2015 and elevated the humble milkshake into a wickedly delicious art form. They have since also opened outlets in Kuala Lumpur and Singapore in Holland Village. These colourful, monster-sized handiworks piled with brownies, cookies or cakes and topped with nuts, pretzels, popcorn, marshmallows and more are sure to put you on a sugar high.

 

Food and more at Kingston

Venturing beyond the traditionally popular suburbs, we leaned towards Molto Italian at the Kingston Foreshore — Canberra’s new urban waterside community on the southern shore of the city’s famed Lake Burley Griffin. Similar to Sentosa’s Quayside Isle, the precinct showcases various restaurants and cafes, with a fair number serving Asian fare.

Molto Italian owner Carlo Tosolini and head chef Giuseppe Pappalardo ensure that the food served remains true to its Italian heritage, from traditional handcrafted pasta to wood-fired pizzas.

Nearby in Kingston is the popular Agostinis at the East Hotel. Its open kitchen is fitted with the largest pizza oven in Canberra (for up to 14 pizzas), and it is also the only restaurant in Australia with Italian wines available on tap.

Take a 30-minute Segway ride with SegGlideRide around the shores of the iconic Lake Burley Griffin for some great views of prominent landmarks and buildings.

Our next stop was the Sculpture Garden, located in the National Gallery of Australia. Wandering around 26 different exhibits, I was captivated by the poignant Heads from the North by Indonesian artist Dadang Christanto — 66 bronze heads in a silent outcry floating in a pond — a tribute to the fatalities resulting from the Indonesian military coup in 1965. Cones by Bert Flugelman is another striking piece — it is a colossal stainless steel structure of seven connected cones. We also ambled into Within without, an enormous Skyspace (viewing chamber) by American artist James Turrell, known for his work with light and space.

 

NOT TOO FAR FROM THE MADDING CROWD

The best part of being in Canberra is its proximity to charming rural experiences in just under an hour.

Formerly from the United Kingdom, Susan and Robert Bruce transformed their family property into a country smokehouse named Poachers Pantry in 1991 to make quality smoked products for restaurants to serve.

This was later opened to the public and today, Poachers Pantry has its own restaurant and a retail area stocking a fine selection of gourmet products and smoked meats.

I was in truffle heaven tasting their truffle ham — moist slices oozing with the flavour of the highly prized funghi.

Lunch was an impressive selection of smoked meats, dips, marinated vegetables and crusty bread; and some of chef’s popular recipes complemented by a glass of crisp Pinot Chardonnay from the couple’s own Wily Trout Vineyards in the surrounding hills.

Nearby is Clonakilla, reputed to be one of the most outstanding wineries in the country, helmed by Tim Kirk, Gourmet Traveller’s Wine Maker of the Year in 2013.

Inspired by the European styles of wine-making, Kirk’s father established Clonakilla, a 18ha vineyard, in 1971, introducing varieties that were suited to the cool climate in Canberra.

As a result, Clonakilla is now best known for its iconic Shiraz Viognier, a consistent award-winner in top wine shows and guides. Its O’Riada Shiraz is served on board Singapore Airlines.

Nearer to the city, Pialligo Estate is a massive beautifully manicured farm property perched on 28 hectares along the Molonglo River. It abounds with olive groves, vineyards, a fruit orchard, market gardens, smokehouse, restaurants and function areas for events. Savour a truffle-inspired meal with a glass of the house wine while soaking in views of the verdant surrounds.

Late May to early September marks truffle-hunting season in Canberra. The Truffle Farm in Majura is spread over 40 hectares, with over 4,000 oak and hazelnut trees.

Upon arrival, we were welcomed by owner owner Jayson Mesman and his team of dogs — Willow, Samson and Dingo. Initially working as a dog handler with Western Australia Customs, Mesman adopted Samson when a colleague relocated.

Samson’s talents surfaced when the labrador sniffed out four kilos of truffles at a farm. The two became inseparable. It was pure delight watching Samson scampering around the trees, effortlessly sniffing out the spots with underground truffles.

As soon as Samson stopped at a spot, Mesman would dig out the earth to reveal a truffle below. After several digs, we were then invited to taste truffle products. I took home a pack of truffle cheese for A$35 (S$38) and my companion bought a 20g piece for A$50 (S$54). “Our truffle farm is the only trufferie in the world found in a capital city,” Mesman said.

The highlight of my visit to Canberra was a stayover at Jamala Wildlife Lodge. It is hard to fathom feral encounters just minutes from the CBD, but at Jamala Wildlife Lodge, I was sleeping next to God’s creatures. Opened in late 2014, the Lodge offers African-inspired luxury accommodation in three hubs: Giraffe Treehouses, Jungle Bungalows and uShaka Lodge.

Within the plush confines of the Giraffe Treehouse, Hummer the resident giraffe kept me company from my balcony. Alpaca and fallow deer graze amiably in the front yard of my Treehouse.

At the Jungle Bungalows, lions, tigers and bears are your neighbours through large glass panels, while guests in the uShaka Lodge get to meet lemurs, hyenas, ocean fish and sharks. Jamala Wildlife Lodge stands within the borders of the National Zoo, with a collection of 270 extraordinary creatures and 100 species from around the world. Guests are taken on tours in the afternoons and mornings.

Dinner time was an out-of-this-world experience, with guests enjoying a four-course meal under the gaze of lions and hyenas lounging in heated, glass-panelled caves.

For more information about Canberra, visitcanberra.com.au

 

Getting there: Singapore Airlines flies direct to Canberra four times a week. Rail and coach services to Canberra are available from Sydney, Melbourne, regional New South Wales and beyond.

Getting around: Free City Loop Bus route 101 around the city. Tourist Loop route bus A$9 (S$9.70) per day.

Accommodation: East Hotel, between Kingston and Manuka, is an ideal base with well-furnished studios and apartments for singles or families to explore Canberra. Complimentary use of bikes.

Retail/market therapy: Braddon, Manuka, the refurbished mega Canberra Centre, Old Bus Depot Markets (Sunday) in Kingston, or the Capital Region Farmers Market (Saturday mornings)

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