Decoding the ‘black tie’ for women

The words “black tie” strike equal amounts of excitement and fear in me. Excitement that I have the opportunity to dress up, fear that a) I have nothing to wear and b) I’m going to get it completely wrong and stick out like a sore and inappropriately-dressed thumb.

The problem is that “black tie” is quite broad. As the Debrett’s fashion guide puts it: “For ladies, a smart dress (such as a cocktail dress) is appropriate. It can be long or short, as long as it’s not too short. It need not be black.”

Over the years, the description has also become somewhat further muddied. So much is now available to us as shoppers that in order to find a truly elegant dress, we need the ability to sift through layer upon layer of split-to-thigh, clingy polyester horrors.

So, what rules should we follow? Here are our expert tips for nailing the dress code.

1 BE AWARE THAT YOU HAVE OPTIONS

“It stems from the men’s outfit — a dinner jacket and a black tie, literally — and the idea is you’re meant to complement that look,” explains Astrid Joss, fashion and beauty editor at Brides magazine. In terms of length, as Debrett’s explains, black tie can mean long, midi or short (though not too short) in length, so, unless your invite advises on a specific length within the black tie code, the choice is up to you.

“I personally think you’ve got to go long,” says Joss, “but if you can’t wear long, at least try to go below-the-knee or three-quarter (midi) length — keep the skirt full and think Dior 1950s, it’s a lot smarter and you can dress it up.”

For stylist Martha Ward, the specifications are less strict: “And it’s simple really: A nice dress. It could be slim line, it could be structured, it could be empire line, it could even be voluminous. It doesn’t matter as long as it looks ‘smart’.”

Our top tips would be to avoid anything too tight and anything that falls more than an inch or so above the knee.

2 DON’T BE AFRAID OF COLOUR

“The key is that it doesn’t have to be black,” says Ward. “I attended a black- tie dinner recently in a hot pink Roksanda dress and was the only girl in colour, and that’s quite typical. And a huge oversight. Colour and print work too!”

3 DRESS FOR YOUR SHAPE AND SIZE

“When choosing an evening dress for a black-tie event, always ensure you dress for your size and shape,” says Donna Stamp, womenswear buyer at British department store chain John Lewis. “A long, flowing gown will generally look great on taller women, while petite women tend to suit a ’50s prom dress or something more fitted that cuts off at the knee.”

4 THINK ABOUT YOUR ACCESSORIES

“Don’t leave it to the night to think about your accessories and make-up as a pair of killer heels, sparkling necklace or bright red lip can transform any outfit,” says Stamp.

When you’re shopping for a dress, try to think of your look as a whole, from shoes to bag to jewellery to make sure everything is in tune. If you have a plain, one-colour dress, then your accessories can make a statement; if your dress has a bold print or pattern, then the accessories are simply there to support and elevate it, so think along simpler lines. Avoid platform shoes — they’re the quickest way to make an outfit look cheap. Go for single soles instead. THE DAILY TELEGRAPH