Eight independent jewellery brands and their designers’ unique vision

SINGAPORE - Independent designers have become a powerful force in the fashion and jewellery industries, with many not only being commissioned to create pieces for “name brands” — as in the case of Eddie Borgo for Target — but also becoming world-renowned brands in their own right, like Ole Lynggaard and Aurelie Bidermann.

The reasons for their appeal are clear enough — independent brands have a strong individualist aesthetic that speaks to customers, who want something unique, which you may not always get from the established houses. Plus, the exclusive nature of independent jewellery designers means that you’ll rarely, if ever, have to experience “outfit-twin horror”. Here are some you can find on our shores.

CHOO YILIN (www.chooyilin.com)

WHAT The modern designs from this homegrown jewellery designer show us that jade isn’t just for our grannies. Designer Choo Yilin’s jade signature was born of her passion for Asian heritage and culture. A big believer in heritage conservation, Choo works with suppliers and master artisans in the region to craft modern jade pieces inspired by culture-crossing sensibilities.

NIALAYA (On Pedder, #02-10, Scotts Square)

The brand specialises in beaded bracelets, each made from materials symbolising a different spiritual energy. Carnelian, for example, is great for creative inspiration, while hematite brings optimisim and courage. It counts model Alessandra Ambrosio and musician Avicii among its fans. Designer Jannik Olander said one key feature of his work for Nialaya is using “spiritual stones”. “It feels meditative for me. Our jewellery is something people wear all of the time, and it’s an extension of their personality. It has a deeper meaning to our customers,” he said. “We design a lot of customised bracelets for people who want something with a specific meaning. I know what the beads all mean so when I am designing (bracelets), I know the meaning of each piece. I love to hear from our customers that their bracelets bring them good luck and that they never take it off.”

Olander added that it’s important that each piece is handmade. “It’s a long process, from sourcing the beads, drilling and polishing them, and making the actual bracelet ... We completely control design and sales from here and that’s how we keep Nialaya unique.”

AURELIE BIDERMANN (Malmaison by The Hour Glass, #01-01, Knightsbridge)

French designer Aurelie Bidermann spent her childhood exploring exotic foreign locales. Her designs draw inspiration from many different cultures, tempered by characteristic French insouciance. Her Spring/Summer 2015 collection features bright turquoise and woven textiles inspired by the colourful adornments of Native American tribes. But don’t be fooled by the casual spirit of her seasonal collections — her fine jewellery is crafted in the ateliers of exacting traditional French jewellers.

EDDIE BORGO (On Pedder, #02-10, Scotts Square)

Eddie Borgo was the winner of the CFDA Swarovski Award for innovation in accessory design, and has worked with the likes of Marchesa, Joseph Altuzarra and Phillip Lim. The latest feather in his cap is a collaboration with budget-friendly chain Target, set to launch on July 12. Borgo draws inspiration from the rock and roll energy and aesthetic of New York City, particularly its geometric architecture. His signature style is characterised by linear shapes and a modern abstract aesthetic that has won him fans the world over.

EK THONGPRASERT (On Pedder, #02-10, Scotts Square)

Ek Thongprasert’s designs burst onto the fashion scene in a flurry of sculpted silicone and Swarovski droplets. The contrast between the synthetic materials and nature-inspired shapes creates a lovely tension that adds to its funky, surrealist feel. Diamonds they may not be, but his pieces have an immense visual impact that have earned him a cult following among the fashion set.

BIBI VAN DER VELDEN (www.bibivandervelden.com)

Designer Bibi van der Velden trained as an artist before developing her line of “wearable art”. She uses unusual materials in her jewellery, the most jaw-dropping of which include real scarab wings and a 40,000-year-old mammoth tusk. She also believes in using sustainable materials such as fairtrade gold and silver. “Why not reuse all the beautiful materials already out there,” she said, “instead of deriving new ones?”

DELFINA DELETTREZ (LaPrendo, #03-08C, Ngee Ann City)

Delfina Delettrez is actually a fourth generation Fendi (yes, that Fendi) but her design pedigree runs far beyond that. She is the youngest designer to ever be featured at the Louvre’s Musee des Arts Decoratifs in Paris. Her jewellery has slightly surrealist energy - disembodied lips, eyes and gems adorn rings that, when worn, appear to float above the body - that is both whimsical and macabre.

OLE LYNGGAARD (LaPrendo, #03-08C, Ngee Ann City)

Ole Lynggaard is a Danish luxury brand that has earned the stamp “By Appointment to the Danish Court”.Established by Ole Lynggard over half a century ago, it is today an internationally recognised purveyor of fine jewellery. Everything is made by hand in a single workshop in Denmark, and given their meticulous attention to detail, its Danish royal warrant comes as no surprise. Charlotte Lynggaard has since taken over as the chief designer alongside her father - both of them have goldsmithing backgrounds, which she said has been “a major asset”. “It gives us a mutual understanding of the characteristics, limitations and possibilities of working with gold and precious stones,” she explained. “This understanding is essential in order to secure the best quality, fit, feel, and overall result.”

Lynggaard said she gets inspired by nature, particularly Scandinavian nature. “The cold crisp light in wintertime changing to warm and blurry on long summer days, the forests, the sea ... Having all this around me when growing up has definitely had a significant impact in my designs. Many elements from nature can be found in our collections.”

Her design process begins with drawings and ideas that Lynggaard mulls over for “a long time”. “After that, I spend a lot of time in our model workshop where the prototype is shaped. Some pieces can take years to create. I place very high expectations on myself in terms of the design and standard of the materials we use. I try each new design myself, as the fit and the way it feels against the skin is essential — I would never launch a piece that I wouldn’t want to wear.

“Our world is not one of fast pace and mass-production — it is about respecting the beautiful craft of fine jewellery-making, never compromising the quality or the materials that we work with.”