Skip to main content

Advertisement

Advertisement

Getting to know the highs and lows of Scotland

Scotland is often described as a mythical land with breathtaking scenery, a vibrant culture and an interesting history — and rightly so.

Scotland is often described as a mythical land with breathtaking scenery, a vibrant culture and an interesting history — and rightly so.

If you haven’t been to the home of the beautiful Highlands (and the very unique highland cow), Scotch whisky and, well, Macbeth, its capital, Edinburgh, is a good place to start.

The city, of course, is famous for its annual Edinburgh Art Festival, for being the home of the Scottish Parliament and, if you’re a fan of author Ian Rankin, it’s the city in which noted detective John Rebus and his colleagues Siobhan Clarke and Gill Templer solve all manner of crimes.

It’s sometimes called Auld Reekie (“Old Smokey”), because back in the day when buildings were heated by coal fires, chimneys would spew thick columns of smoke into the air, and the city’s Old Town — one half of Edinburgh — is where you can get that “days of yore” vibe. It has a distinct medieval look, with charming buildings and is home to most of the city’s touristy sights. Yes, the entire area is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Topping the list of attractions in Edinburgh is the stunning Edinburgh Castle, which sits at one end of The Royal Mile, the main thoroughfare in the Old Town. All websites say no visit to Edinburgh would be complete without a trip to this “historical haven”. Located at Castle Rock, an extinct volcanic plug that elevates the formidable fortress high above the rest of the city, you do get a wonderful view of the city (weather permitting, of course).

It’s worth a visit, especially if you’re into military history. Parts of the castle date as far back to the 11th century. It’s also where you’ll find Scotland’s crown jewels and the Stone of Destiny. No, it’s not some Harry Potter plot device, it’s an actual artefact that has been traditionally used for centuries in the coronation of Scottish rulers.

At the other end of the road is the Palace of Holyroodhouse, The Queen’s official residence when she’s in Scotland. It’s open to visitors all year round and is actually best known as the home of Mary, Queen of Scots, who acceded the Scottish throne when she was only six days old. She would later make a grab for the English throne, going up against Queen Elizabeth I, but her attempts failed and she was eventually executed after being implicated in a plot to assassinate Elizabeth I.

The other half of Edinburgh is called — wait for it — The New Town; it’s not exactly new any more — it has been around for more than 200 years. It lies on the other side of Princess Street and is an absolute contrast to the Old Town. It takes on a Georgian look and most of the buildings are designed in the Neoclassical style. The streets are much wider and it’s the business hub, where commercial and retail buildings stand side by side.

But if you want a historical gem that is slightly off the tourist track, then you should go on a tour of the South Bridge vaults. On our tour, organised by Mercat Tours, we got to see a labyrinth of rooms and dwelling spaces built some 200 years ago, tucked below the surface, while our guide regaled us with some fascinating tales of the old days. (If you’re brave enough, there is a ghost tour you can take, too.)

It took us through a series of chambers formed in the arches of the South Bridge — which was completed in 1788 — and was used for 30 years by tradesmen such as cobblers to ply their trade. The chambers also housed taverns and were used as storage space for illicit material.

The conditions of the vaults got worse mainly because of damp and poor air quality, which drove the businesses out. The city’s poor then moved in but even they found it inhabitable after a while. The vaults were later filled with rubble and it was only after an accidental excavation in 1985 that they came to public attention once again.

 

TIME TO GET HIGH

 

Of course, a trip to Scotland wouldn’t be complete without seeing the Highlands. A complete contrast to the underground vaults of Edinburgh, the Highlands is Scotland’s picturesque region in the country’s north. It is filled with majestic mountains and stunning lochs, and is dotted with dramatic history at almost every turn. The Highlands is also where you’ll find Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the entire British Isles.

It’s possible to take day trips to the Highlands from Edinburgh, although if you like to take things slow, spread your visit over two or three days. You can sign up for one of the many tours available or hire a car and discover it at your own pace. The tour that we went on was a day tour of Loch Ness and the Highlands and started off with a visit to Stirling, where you’ll see Stirling Castle (not only a historical monument but also a concert venue) and The National Wallace Monument, named after William Wallace.

If you know your British history, he led the Scottish rebellion against Edward I and, in September 1297, he was defeated by a much larger English force at the Battle of Stirling Bridge. The monument sits just outside the city of Stirling and overlooks the site of this famous battle.

Wallace was also famously portrayed by Mel Gibson in the film Braveheart, and, as many know, Scotland has several ties with Hollywood. It has produced famous acting talents such as Sean Connery, Ewan McGregor and Gerard Butler. The country has also been used as the location for some Hollywood productions and, once you’re in the Highlands, you might recognise some of them.

The previous James Bond offering, Skyfall, showcased the stunning area of Glencoe as the location of Bond’s family estate (there was also the thrilling chase sequence filmed in this part of the Highlands). And Harry Potter fans will no doubt have an exciting treat with the Jacobite train, which was featured in the films as the Hogwarts Express.

It’s easy to fall in love with the Highlands. We couldn’t get enough just staring at its natural beauty. (And while it is a bit of a touristy gimmick, you can’t not take a snap of the bagpipe player that’s often stationed at the car park and coach stop in this area.)

We eventually tore ourselves away — okay, the coach was leaving — to continue our journey to the waters of Loch Ness. This loch (a Scottish Gaelic word meaning “lake” or inlet of the sea) is also most famous for the Nessie, the Loch Ness Monster that supposedly lives in its deep waters. You might not find Nessie when you’re there, but you will certainly be taken in by the spectacular views of the loch.

You can take a loch cruise — which lasts about an hour — or just roam around the little village of Fort Augustus, at the lakeside. Here, you’ll find the impressive Caledonian Canal — which is an impressive 60 miles long (about 97km) — and it’s fascinating to see how the boats navigate the locks that lead to and from the loch.

Driving back to Edinburgh, we crossed the striking Forth Bridge, which was named Scotland’s sixth World Heritage site by UNESCO earlier this year. The rail bridge opened in 1890 and crosses the Firth of Forth between the villages of South and North Queensferry. It is also an indicator that you’ll be back in Edinburgh soon, and if you arrive in the early evening, you may still have time to catch the sunset from Arthur’s Seat at Holyrood Park, which gives you equally stunning views of the surroundings, before heading back down for a bite and a pint at one of the many pubs in the city.

As John Rebus would say: “There’s no better way to end the day”.

 

 

Read more of the latest in

Advertisement

Advertisement

Stay in the know. Anytime. Anywhere.

Subscribe to get daily news updates, insights and must reads delivered straight to your inbox.

By clicking subscribe, I agree for my personal data to be used to send me TODAY newsletters, promotional offers and for research and analysis.