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Have you heard of China’s Xishuangbanna?

XISHUANGBANNA — I rubbed my eyes and did a double take at the surroundings while on the way to the hotel from Xishuangbanna Gasa Airport (also known as Jinghong International). I was pretty sure I was still in mainland China, but it certainly looked like I had got onto the wrong flight and found myself in Chiang Mai instead.

XISHUANGBANNA — I rubbed my eyes and did a double take at the surroundings while on the way to the hotel from Xishuangbanna Gasa Airport (also known as Jinghong International). I was pretty sure I was still in mainland China, but it certainly looked like I had got onto the wrong flight and found myself in Chiang Mai instead.

But it’s not simply a matter of coincidence that the architecture, the street signs and even the way locals dressed transported me to Thailand. This autonomous prefecture in southern Yunnan Province is home to the largest population of Dai people in China. They’re also known as Tai, which means you won’t be wrong to assume certain connections. The people here share the same language with the Thais; many Dai people relocated southward to countries like Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Myanmar in ancient times; the main religion is Buddhism; and the biggest cultural event here is Songkran, which is also held in mid-April, during the same period it takes place in Thailand.

WHAT TO EXPLORE

It seems Xishuangbanna is content to hold on to a languid tropical pace. In its largest city, Jinghong, locals have a mandated three-hour siesta between noon to 3pm when everything grinds to a halt. It is also the furthest thing to a metropolis such as Shanghai, where I was based. Don’t expect to find a plethora of sights like sprawling amusement parks, national monuments or museums. Rather, Jinghong presents travellers with the opportunity to avoid the hordes of domestic tourists so commonly found in other Chinese cities and be immersed in its most prized assets: Culture and nature.

You can, for instance, learn about local culture at Mandiu Village, home to a small Dai population that peddles its wares along a short market stretch. Many of the homes in this village are built on stilts, a traditional architectural form commonly seen in countries like Thailand and Vietnam. Of course, the retail options here pale in comparison to Bangkok’s famous Chatuchak Market, but you do get a chance to get an intimate glimpse into a Dai household since it’s a residential district. The locals seem to have no qualms about strangers stepping foot into their homes, and are usually more than happy to oblige for a photo.

For the slightly more intrepid travellers who don’t mind a scenic hike, Xishuangbanna has six mountains where you can find some of the finest pu’er tea leaves in China. The Forest Cafe, a casual eatery and hostel, offers guided tours that come in varying degrees of difficulty, from one-day trips to Menghai to multi-day expeditions that take you through rainforest trails, ethnic minority villages and the mountains along the Mekong River.

Xishuangbanna was one of the stops in the ancient Tea Horse Road, a famous ancient trading route that threads through Yunnan all the way to India. The Ancient Tea Horse Scenic Spot is an ideal place for those who wish to stretch their legs, learn more about this historic route and sample some of the city’s famous produce. The tourist destination allows visitors to walk or ride a horse-pulled carriage through the tea plantation. Along the way are ancient houses exhibiting teaharvesting equipment and historical relics. There is also a retail centre that sells a wide variety of tea, with some of the rarest types costing up to S$200 for a small packet.

When night falls, you can head to the Xishuangbanna Mountain Forest Grand Theatre in the Gaozhuang Xishuangjing district to catch the Mengbalanaxi cultural show, a spectacular two-hour performance that combines contemporary dance, minority culture and high-tech lighting effects on an elaborate stage.

WHERE TO EAT

Hungry? Don’t expect classic pad thai, tom yum soup or green curries. The Dai people love their grilled meats and the best place to have this is at Man Fei Long, directly opposite the grand theatre. Highly popular with locals and tourists alike, the restaurant offers a comprehensive selection of authentic Dai cuisine, which includes grilled chicken, shredded pork, bamboo-cooked rice and fried bananas that are very much like goreng pisang (minus the crispy crunch). It’s an excellent place for an indulgent feast for a big group of friends and family.

A 10-minute walk from the restaurant (and past a magnificent Buddhist temple) is the Starlight Night Market, where more food options are available. Here you’ll find typical Chinese street eats like smelly tofu, meat skewers and fried noodles. Another location that foodies should take note of is a stretch along Menghai Road where you’ll be spoilt for choice with the numerous barbeque joints and fresh fruit vendors.

Those in need of a tipple can head to the bar street perpendicular to the Manting Bridge and right beside the Lancang River. It looks like a Boat Quay of sorts and the area is also home to various cafes, restaurants and hostels.

WHERE TO STAY

If you prefer more upmarket accommodation, there aren’t that many options. It’s an indication of Jinghong’s not-quite-commercialised state that you have only three international properties in the city: Anantara Resort and Spa, Crowne Plaza and the newly-opened Sheraton Xishuangbanna, where I stayed.

This Sheraton outpost marks Starwood Hotel Group’s first foray into Yunnan and it’s really quite impressive, with a grand space that begins from the driveway full of massive palm trees with trunks wrapped in resplendent gold foil. The decor inside reflects Dai cultural influences — the huge lamps hanging from the ceiling resemble elephant feet (a nod to the Dai people’s elephant feet-shaped drum used during traditional dances) and the walls feature intricately carved peacock motifs.

And if you can’t get enough of the whole Thai vibes, you can just hop down to its Red Basil restaurant for a fix of Red Curry Vegetable and Beef Salad. After which you have the option of heading back into your spacious room or having a soak at the outdoors hotsprings pools. There’s more trekking to be done and sights to be seen, such as the Manfeilong stupas. And I have a feeling it’s going to be another deja vu moment yet again.

This trip was made possible by Starwood Hotels & Resorts.

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