Skip to main content

Advertisement

Advertisement

Mystery islands

In the North Atlantic Ocean, tiny islands with jagged peaks and vertiginous cliffs rise from the water. Sea stacks and black sandy beaches fringe the coast, while steep mountains stretch across the length of the islands.

In the North Atlantic Ocean, tiny islands with jagged peaks and vertiginous cliffs rise from the water. Sea stacks and black sandy beaches fringe the coast, while steep mountains stretch across the length of the islands.

These are the Faroe Islands, a self-governing territory of Denmark. The 18 islands lie at the intersections of Iceland, Scotland and Norway, and like their neighbours, the Faroe Islands tick all the boxes for a perfect tourist destination: World-class hiking, abundant nature and deeply rooted traditions. Plus, the skies display the Northern Lights or aurora borealis every winter.

My journey started from Copenhagen onboard a small Atlantic Airways aircraft bound for Vagar Airport. From above, I could see the fjords shimmering beneath and waterfalls tumbling down their edges.

I didn’t have to go far to start experiencing Faroese beauty. There were sheep grazing on grasslands right outside the airport. I was surrounded by rolling green fields and shimmering lakes.

Just a five-minute drive away was Sorvagsvatn, the biggest lake on the Faroe Islands. Sorvagsvatn looked as if it tumbled into the ocean from a height of several hundred feet. The lake does flow into the ocean but in reality, it did so from just 27m. It still looked impressive in reality, especially when I walked along the rim (don’t expect any railings in the Faroes) to where the lake flows into the ocean.

Understanding Faroese culture

My guide for the hike was Jana Jacobsen, a chirpy Faroese who worked for the local tourist office. Sporting amber hair, freckled cheeks and a strong English accent, Jana could have passed off as Scottish. But it was easy to tell she was a proud Faroese at heart.

Having lived in Scotland for six years, Jana returned to the Faroe Islands a year ago with her son. She moved back home to be close to her family as well as the pristine nature and wilderness. In fact, most young Faroese like her ventured abroad for studies and work, but eventually returned to settle down in this quiet haven.

Even though the Faroe Islands belong to the Kingdom of Denmark, they have their own cultural identity and language that are closer to Iceland’s. Their historically rich traditions and customs are also distinct.

One of the most unique, though controversial, Faroese traditions is the grindadrap or the grind, which involves killing pods of pilot whales or dolphins with hooks and knives, and staining the beaches blood red. The practice has enraged wildlife conservation associations for decades.

When I asked Jana about the sensitive topic, she explained: “It’s a centuries-old tradition and part of our lives for so many years. Removing it from our lives would be taking away our identity.”

As I learned from Jana, there are actually more sheep than humans here. Consider this: 70,000 sheep versus 50,000 people live on the Faroe Islands.

Parrots of the sea

The isles are also home to the largest colony of puffins in the country, found mainly on Mykines. I made it my mission to visit this 10sq km isle that is the westernmost island in the Faroes. With a population of just 14 and no roads, Mykines felt castaway, even though it was just a 45-minute ferry trip from Vagar Airport.

Along with a French hiker, we traipsed up rolling green hills and kept going. The path then descended into a narrow path with steps carved into the slopes and a rickety rope bridge that swayed in the strong winds. It involved clambering up and down, at times right along the edge of the craggy cliff faces. But we were treated to jaw-dropping views at every corner.

Eventually, the trail led us to Lambi, the biggest puffin colony on the western point of the island. Even from a distance, I could recognise the short-winged birds with their bright beaks and black wings flapping in the sky.

As I kneeled on the slopes to observe them quietly, I could see hundreds, if not thousands, of puffins in their nesting burrows. Deep grunting sounds echoed in the air. It was easy to see how puffins got their nickname, parrots of the sea. Their bodies waddled as they walked and their eyes sparkled in the sun. They behaved like playful children, so full of energy and mischief.

An eclectic capital city

My journey continued on to Streymoy, the largest island in the Faroes. It’s home to the capital city Torshavn, a charming and eclectic enclave with beautiful grass-roofed wooden houses and a vibrant harbour. Founded in the 10th century and named after the Norse god Thor, the town became the political centre of the Faroes after the first settlers established their own parliament called ting around 800. Currently, the city has a population of around 20,000 and has a small-town feel with the best dining options you can find in the Faroes.

The habit of dining out only started 25 years ago here. As a result, the dining scene is still in its infancy. One of the most popular and trendy places to eat in town was Erika, a modern and stylish bistro that serves fresh sushi and other Japanese dishes. That evening, I also dined at another much-raved-about seafood restaurant, Barbara, which really impressed me with its rich and fresh dishes.

Islands of adventure

Over the next few days, I drove around three other islands and felt I had travelled across continents. Because of the size of the islands, distances are short but the sights are surprisingly diverse.

At Vestmanna, I took a boat safari and cruised so close to the sea cliffs, I could almost touch the birds. On Eysturoy, I drove along fjords and stopped every now and then for herds of sheep to pass before arriving at the picturesque village of Gjogv. On the remote isle of Kalsoy, I did an epic hike up the razorback peak of Borgarin to reach the postcard-perfect Kallur Lighthouse.

On my last day, I made a detour to Gasadalur on my way to the airport. This was the last village to be made accessible by road when a tunnel was built in 2008. Previously, you could only reach the village on foot. But it was the iconic Gasadalur waterfall that had brought me to the Faroe Islands. I wanted to capture the dramatic image of water cascading down the cliff’s edge, backdropped by the imposing mountains and the verdant green fields surrounding the tiny village. This striking scene is one of the things that have put the country on the tourist map in recent years.

- Getting there
Atlantic Airways flies to the Faroe Islands from Copenhagen, Edinburgh and Reykjavik. Most travellers combine a trip to the Faroe Islands with Iceland or Norway.

There is a good public bus network but the buses only ply the main roads. Renting a car will let you travel to remote and less accessible parts as most of the islands are connected by tunnels or bridges. If you don’t drive, the ferry is another good way to get around. To catch the ferries and buses, visit ssl.fo/en/home to check the schedule. Most of them don’t need an advanced booking, except for the Mykines ferry that fills up easily.

Atlantic Airways also has a network of helicopter services that connects the islands. You can fly from Vagar Airport to Mykines and Torshavn. Helicopter rides are not that much more expensive than ferry ones (145DKK or S$30 each way), and you get to see the islands from above.

- When to go
Summer (July and August) when it is sunny and relatively warm, although temperatures will still range from 9°C to 13°C. There may be rain even in summer. Pack rain gear, layers and quick-dry clothing regardless of when you visit.

Read more of the latest in

Advertisement

Advertisement

Stay in the know. Anytime. Anywhere.

Subscribe to get daily news updates, insights and must reads delivered straight to your inbox.

By clicking subscribe, I agree for my personal data to be used to send me TODAY newsletters, promotional offers and for research and analysis.