48 hours in Malacca

Malacca is not only steeped in history, it is also the cultural capital for Straits-born Chinese (or Peranakans) — and a food haven. With coaches departing daily from Singapore, Malacca, located three hours away, offers the perfect short escape.

8.30am

With our coach tickets booked via busticketonline.com, we were off!

11.50am

We arrived just ahead of the lunch crowd at the famous Donald & Lily restaurant. We chose to drop off at 707 Hotel, which was within walking distance to the restaurant. It offers the best Peranakan food in Malacca, according to locals and The New York Times. Must-try dishes include the laksa and dry mee siam.

Donald & Lily Restaurant: No 16 Jalan KSB 1, Taman Kota Shahbandar, Malacca

12.45pm

We overheard that the laksa at Donald & Lily restaurant was sold out. Good thing we got there early!

3pm

We retreated to Backlane Coffee to get out of the heat. An Instagram-worthy drink to try: Mr. Owl Iced Latte. It came with owl-shaped coffee cubes, a sake bottle of warm milk and a vial of syrup. Pour the milk over the owl cubes and watch the birds turn into delicious iced coffee. This cafe is also a great place to rest with a good book and cake.

Backlane Coffee: 129 Jalan Hang Jebat

5pm

One cannot visit Malacca and miss out on Jonker 88. We ordered our usual: Deep-fried beancurd skin, shrimp balls and a bowl of rich chendol. Regular patrons around us slurped down bowls of hot laksa.

Jonker 88: 88 Jalan Hang Jebat

6pm

Hawkers started to noisily set up stalls for the weekend night market on Jonker Walk. Familiar sights like chendol aside, this colourful scene also showcased the latest food fads. The snacks du jour were fresh watermelon juice, pulverised right inside its rind with a handheld blender, and nitrogen-frozen ice cream.

9.30am

To avoid the lunch crowd at Kedai Kopi Chung Wah, we came here for breakfast instead. It is famed for its chicken rice balls. The lunchtime queues start as early as 11am with the last ball sold at around 2pm.

Kedai Kopi Chung Wah: 18 Jalan Hang Jebat

10.30am

After a satisfying meal, we crossed the Malacca River to take in the historic sights, such as The Stadthuys, and explored the winding streets and lanes. We met a traditional craftsman carving tiny Chinese characters onto a solid wood sign, and a no-fuss bookstore offering interesting reads.

Noon

Our exploration led us to a nondescript food cart. As it turned out, the popiah here was a favourite among locals and we could see why. The burrito-sized roll was packed with sauteed turnips, egg, and a generous sprinkling of crispy lard.

Next to Madam King’s Departmental Store along Jalan Bunga Raya

2pm

Lunch was at our favourite eatery: Nancy’s Kitchen. The restaurant has relocated from Jonker Walk to Taman Kota Laksamana. It has retained the iconic door frame and vintage furnishings. Thankfully, the food hadn’t changed and you’d be hard-pressed to find better chinchaluk babi and ayam buah keluak elsewhere. We didn’t forget to take away some of their delicious Nyonya blue-rice dumplings.

Nancy’s Kitchen: 13 Jalan KL 3/8, Taman Kota Laksamana, Seksyen 3

8pm

Jonker Street Hawker Centre was more akin to traditional coffeeshops than the ones we know in Singapore. We had local delicacies, such as Hokkien mee with black sauce, Sarawak mee, and the most deliciously charred chicken wings. These beauties were rotisseried skillfully by hand over a charcoal fire for a char and glaze you cannot get with a machine grill.

Jonker Hawker Centre: Jalan Kota Laksamana 1/2, Taman Sri Laksamana, Seksyen 1

10am

We had to stock up on homemade pineapple tarts, heong piah as well as a plethora of sauces, packet curries, and sambal chillis at Christina Ee. Remember to order a bowl of chendol. Christina Ee offers unlimited pure gula melaka that you can drizzle over shaved ice.

Christina Ee: 8 Jalan Hang Lekir