Popping over to Pyongyang

A trip to the Democratic People’s Republic of Korea (DPRK), more commonly referred to as North Korea, may not be high on most people’s lists when it comes to booking a holiday in Asia.

Most of the time, we’re constantly updated on the darker, dystopian side of the DPRK instead of the sights, sounds, natural wonders and tourist attractions that one can find there. Yes, visas can take a while to process, and a voyage on a cruise ship from Singapore or a train from China makes a trip to one of the least visited countries in the world seem like too much of a hassle to consider. So it’s not surprising that to most people, it’s more trouble than it’s worth.

Yet, North Korea remains one of the most talked-about countries in the world. There is a fog of mystery surrounding it, not forgetting those incredulous tales that inevitably result in blogs and memes all over the Internet. For some of us, the thrill of saying you’ve been to where few have gone but many have critiqued is reason enough to get there. You may not see the country in all its entirety, but you do see a side of the DPRK that you rarely hear about, as I discovered.

DIRECT FLIGHT TO PYONGYANG

Earlier last month, an authorised North Korean travel agency, Young Pioneer Tours (www.youngpioneertours.com),began offering a new travel option: A direct flight on Air Koryo to North Korea from Kuala Lumpur. Air Koryo may not have the fanciest reputation, but this means the Hermit Kingdom doesn’t seem quite as inaccessible as it once was.

With the direct flight, a trend is emerging. Within my group, a large number of Indonesians, several Australians and myself were all signed up (There are several tours offered, from the “political interest” tour to the “extreme mass games” tour.)

While the travel agency can get your visa sorted out — along with any paperwork, tickets, accommodation, food and plenty of good company — the fact that Singapore is one of very few countries in the world that has a North Korean embassy means you can collect your visa right here. This also means that you have a physical visa permanently in your passport, while other nationalities are given a slip of paper that is removed when they depart. North Korean stamps in your passport are a rare badge of honour for any road-less-travelled adventurer, and they won’t affect your entry to other countries — one of the many myths your time in the country will dispel.

When we visited the monuments, and especially the Kumsusan Palace Of The Sun, for example, the amount of reverence displayed by the locals was impressive, and quite astounding. I was under the impression that everything would be strictly controlled, but the Korean guides eased up as they got to know us and I managed to do a bit of wandering by myself — provided I didn’t go too far from the group.

DISPELLING THE MYTH

The natural and man-made highlights of North Korea made up much of our tour there, from the impressive and highly revered Grand Monument to the Ulim Waterfalls (the names means “echo” — for obvious reasons). We had the chance to see the formal and very regal mausoleum that houses the tombs of Kim Jong Il and Kim Il Sung, as well as some stunning views of the pretty peaks of mountains as we traversed the countryside.

Beyond the sights you’ll see though, is the contrast — and in some cases, stark ones. Several impressive buildings more reminiscent of Dubai than anywhere else in Asia are settled among rows and rows of government housing. These apartments are alloted to married North Korean couples that apply for a flat; these young Koreans typically stay with their families until they are married and ready to have children.

You may have heard horror stories about travelling in North Korea: Tourists being detained, phones being confiscated, people being followed, or rooms being bugged. One of the first things we were told: If you find yourself in some trouble, it’s unlikely that you will bear the consequences. Your Korean tour guides are responsible for you, and they will bear the brunt for any offence you commit. That’s more than enough to keep most tourists in check, though there isn’t too much opportunity to get up to mischief.

A night out in your hotel bar or the Diplomat’s Club for an evening of karaoke is usually as wild as it gets. That name though, is a bit of a misnomer: There were no diplomats there — just a lot of drunk American tourists singing.

A lot of the places we went to had their own microbreweries though, and the beer was excellent. Most of the places we went to were quite empty — with only a handful of locals present. At night, as we weren’t allowed to leave the island the Yanggakdo Hotel is on, we’d hang out at the bar on the ground floor, where lots of travellers from various tour groups had gathered. One strange thing I noticed about all the bars we went to: None of them played any music — conversation only.

THE WORLD IN THEIR EYES

That doesn’t mean you will have a dull time — you’re constantly in the company of fellow intrepid travellers, who make up the key demographic of those who take the jaunt to North Korea. A couple of beers with the locals is possibly the most insight you can gain in your time there. But it’s your chance to get to know the people of Pyongyang, which is an experience few people in the world have.

While most people in Pyongyang are a small representation of the rest of North Korea, you do have a chance to chat with the locals in town, whether it’s at lunchtime picnics in the park or nights at the bar or barbeques by the river. Unlike some portrayals we've seen on TV or in the movies, many of the locals we met were friendly and excited, rather than wary, to see foreigners. Okay, they don’t like you to get too close, and they are usually reluctant to have photographs taken, but they are still more than keen to wave at tourists on the bus, while groups of giggling kids occasionally run up to you.

I asked a young university student which country he might like to visit one day. “No where,” he immediately said. “Korea is where I want to be, always.”

That’s not just propaganda.

Even though it’s not quite your usual holiday, a week in North Korea can be a learning experience and give you a glimpse into a place where few have ventured, while at the same time offering you a taste of something you haven’t encountered before.

The people and sights that fascinated me most and proved me wrong about my initial opinion of North Korea — that it was quite bleak and hostile place. While a lot of what we hear about North Korea is true, this aspect of the trip reminded me of a quote by Aldous Huxley: “To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.”