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Stephanie Chai: How to spend a perfect weekend in Sri Lanka

We’re all familiar with this conundrum: We all want a weekend getaway, but there are only so many destinations one can head to and still make it back in time for work on Monday.

We’re all familiar with this conundrum: We all want a weekend getaway, but there are only so many destinations one can head to and still make it back in time for work on Monday.

Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand are the go-to choices, but what about ... Sri Lanka? The country is only a three-and-a-half-hour flight away, which makes it technically suitable for a weekend trip. Here, Stephanie Chai, founder of luxury hotel booking portal The Luxe Nomad, shared how she made it happen.

FRIDAY: The goal for our Sri Lanka getaway was to travel fast, furious and decadently. But should we head for the verdant hills or the golden beaches? As much as we love tea, we figured we could always do an afternoon tea session on the beach, so to the sea we went.

We took a flight after work and arrived in Colombo at 10pm. No rest for the wicked though — our driver picked us up and we were on the move. Everyone seemed asleep in the quiet, colonial city and we spent two-and-a-half-hour drive in silence meandering down to the coast. We finally pitched up bleary-eyed at an incredibly well-preserved colonial mansion that has clearly lost none of its charm, the Amangalla. Originally built in 1684 to house the Dutch Governor and officers, it is situated within Galle Fort. Exhausted, we climbed into our four-poster beds at 4am.

SATURDAY: We awoke to panoramic views of terracotta roofs and the sea beyond. Seeing as it was midday, our butler managed to sway us into having our afternoon tea at the veranda and we’re glad we did. Sipping the country’s most famed produce while gazing out into the emerald fields is something you don’t just pass up.

Upon leaving Amangalla, our main agenda was to visit Galle Fort, a must-see UNESCO heritage site, although we couldn’t help but be sidetracked by the multitude of quaint little boutiques hawking jewellery, homeware, antiques and the like.

We eventually made it to the fort. Although many modifications were done when the British took over, it’s still considered a unique monument, said to be “the best example of a fortified city with a fusion of European architecture and South Asian traditions”. In short, it’s an impressively built structure.

Next up was the fishing town of Tangalle — although we also made an obligatory touristy stop at the turtle farm and hatchery along the way. Yes, we released some tiny turtles, but more importantly, a visit here helps the turtle cause as the place provides rehabilitative care for these animals, which are caught and injured by fishing nets. While the facilities are nothing to shout about, there is still a learning experience to be had when one overhears statements like: “How long can turtles stay underwater? Don’t they need air?”

The next place we visited was the Koggala spice garden, where we learnt about various spices and herbs used for cooking and medicinal purposes. After the tour, you can purchase products to “cure all sorts of ailments”. They even have an ayurvedic oil to help with snoring.

Down by the sea, there is constant hustling and haggling by locals at every street corner. Photography is strictly prohibited near the docks — lest you scare off the fishes. Should you wish to score that Instagram shot, be prepared to fork out some cash: When we snapped a picture of fishermen perched on stilts, one came up to us and demanded monetary compensation. We felt bad when told that they earn only a meagre amount for their catch. That said, we were later told they were just posing!

If you want to take photos without paying, the picturesque Dondra lighthouse and the Sri Vishnu Shrine at Devinuwara won’t disappoint. There was much more to see, but we were running out of time — and steam. When our driver asked, “Would you like to ...?” we answered with a weary no.

We checked into Amanwella that evening and what an oasis it was. Located in a mature coconut grove fronting a crescent-shaped beach, it was designed by the island’s most notable architect, Geoffrey Bawa, and blends tradition and modernity with utmost taste while exuding seclusion and tranquility.

Our private villa was nothing short of perfect with its plunge pool and terrace. But it was the resort’s main infinity pool, fringed with palms, overlooking the beach and its rolling waves, where we spent most of our time at.

After a fiery dinner of curry — so spicy we were reduced to tears — we retreated to rest up before the 4.30am wake-up call for the leopard safari.

SUNDAY: Our last morning here. To our dismay, Yala National Park wasn’t exactly teeming with parading leopards, but there was an abundance of peacocks, elephants, boars and monkeys. Apparently, there were sightings of our spotted friends, but my myopia didn’t quite help. Even with the extra zoom lens, the closest we got to seeing any leopards was when we managed to make out a couple of spots and two tails in the distance. Picnic (sans leopards) was arranged for us at the park, before we set off on a day trip to Colombo. We checked out the Old Dutch Hospital, a majestic building since converted into a shopping and dining precinct. We also enjoyed a late lunch at Gallery Cafe on Paradise Road, a restaurant and art gallery which used to be Bawa’s former office.

We had just enough time for one more dip in our private pool at the Amanwella before saying goodbye to Sri Lanka. It was then that we noted that there weren’t any TVs in the suites. We had been too busy seeing the sights of Sri Lanka to even look for the remote control. But isn’t that what a perfect holiday is all about?

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