Travel tips

GETTING THERE

From Buenos Aires, Aerolineas Argentinas and LAN fly to Bariloche. LAN, the national carrier of Chile, tends to be more reliable as Aerolineas Argentinas has a history of losing luggage.

GETTING AROUND

The bus system serves the main tourist destinations well and is easy to use, but for the greatest flexibility, rent a car. Several major international car rental companies are based in the airport, but you might get better deals with local companies like Ruta 40 Rent A Car (familiatrujillo5 [at] gmail.com) or Localiza (localiza.com).

Locals tend to use kilometre markers to tell you how to find things. For example, they might say: The restaurant is on kilometre 3 of Pioneros — Pioneros refers to the road name, Avenida de los Pioneros. The kilometre markers are hard to see if you don’t know what you’re looking for. They are little black signs at the side of the road about the height of a bus stop. They are impossible to read at night. It’s wise to invest in a GPS or download the map of Bariloche in Google Maps.

Bikes and kayaks can be rented fromcircuitochicobikes.com.

WHERE TO EAT

Try Alto el Fuego for the area’s specialties: Patagonian lamb and lake trout. For those on a budget, Familia Weiss is the Swensens of Bariloche — a longstanding institution that serves up the classics well.

WHERE TO STAY

With sturdy cypress and stone walls, polished wood floors, huge fireplaces, and deer hides and antlers decorating everything, Llao Llao Hotel & Resort, Golf-Spa is the place of choice for the well-heeled.

Llao Llao is sited on a little hill on its own. Out of every window are vistas of the two lakes in Llao Llao’s immediate vicinity: Lago Nahuel Huapi and Lago Perito Moreno.

Llao Llao was built under government auspices in the 1930s, but does not show its age. Even non-guests should walk the grounds and take a meal there to admire how architect Alejandro Bustillo’s creation perfectly complements the splendid scenery.