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More structured training among ideas to preserve hawker culture

SINGAPORE — Instead of waiting for a veteran hawker to sell or pass along his secret recipe, could there be more structured training offered at higher-education institutions here to encourage more aspirants to enter the trade?

SINGAPORE — Instead of waiting for a veteran hawker to sell or pass along his secret recipe, could there be more structured training offered at higher-education institutions here to encourage more aspirants to enter the trade?

Could dishes that face an uphill task in drawing younger hawkers, owing to low profit margins, be given “heritage badges” that entitle hawkers to special subsidies?

These were some ideas served up today (Jan 10) at an SGfuture dialogue session on future hawker centres.

Led by the Ministry of the Environment and Water Resources (Mewr), 43 participants shared their views on threats to the hawker culture here, and ways to overcome them, at the Future of Us exhibition space at Gardens by the Bay.

At the close of the dialogue, Senior Minister of State (Environment and Water Resources) Amy Khor said one suggestion she found useful was for more structured training.

“Can we get people involved, perhaps, say, the higher-education institutions, Institute of Technical Education or culinary schools and so on ... to actually teach the basics of certain hawker fare so it’s more structured training and people who want to consider joining this trade could get the necessary training?

“I thought it’s an idea we can explore. Of course, we can have different models to facilitate and support new entrants, but this is one possible way we can look into,” she said.

Dr Khor noted that many of the participants — comprising hawkers, hawker association representatives, managing agents NTUC Foodfare and Fei Siong as well as others with an interest in the subject — had raised the need for a better working and dining environment.

She said the Government has been improving the design and ventilation of new and upgraded hawker centres, and has also tried to ensure sufficient stall space for hawkers.

Food blogger and doctor Leslie Tay said clean, comfortable hawker centres are important, both to draw young hawkers and to ensure enough patrons going forward, as the younger crowd have choices aplenty.

“Hawker centres need to cater for the future generation of Singaporeans, not just for the present,” he said.

He suggested “heritage badges” and special subsidies for hawkers selling certain dishes. Muah chee, for instance, is a “very cheap food — nobody pays more than S$2 for it”, he said.

“So it’s very difficult for any hawker who wants to encourage any young hawker to sell this particular dish. So, certain foods like char kway teow and muah chee that aren’t doing very well in our current environment need help.”

During the session, several young hawkers shared their reasons for entering the trade.

Mr Fabian Toh, 34, gave up a higher salary in the military to join his parents at the 115 Tang Shui dessert stall started by his grandmother in Chinatown Complex Market and Food Centre.

He has since grown its social media presence and begun offering delivery services in order not to lose customers who have relocated to offices in Changi and other parts of the island.

Ms Aericurl Chng, 24, who runs a dessert stall at the hawker centre at Ci Yuan Community Club, said hawker centres were part of her growing-up years and had noticed many hawkers were ageing.

When the Republic Polytechnic pharmaceutical science graduate read about the Fei Siong Entrepreneurship Programme, she went for it and now works harder but earns more than in her previous job as a clinic assistant.

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