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Sunset in Suncheon

I’m not going to sugar-coat it for you: If you don’t speak Korean, you’re going to face some challenges travelling in this part of South Korea. Few Koreans in Suncheon, which is located in South Jeolla province, speak English and there is nary a Latin character on signboards and menus.

I’m not going to sugar-coat it for you: If you don’t speak Korean, you’re going to face some challenges travelling in this part of South Korea. Few Koreans in Suncheon, which is located in South Jeolla province, speak English and there is nary a Latin character on signboards and menus.

However, the rewards of sojourning far from the madding crowd are obvious. If you put in a little effort and stay positive, you’ll have a great time in an area where few foreign tourists have ever set foot.

Suncheon is barely a city. A wide river with a well-maintained cycling track and lovely flowers on both banks runs through its middle. There are a few blocks of buildings more than four storeys high clustered around the river. Beyond that, everything spreads out into the countryside and the buildings become more sporadic the further you venture from the river.

QUIET RETREAT

The lack of people is a boon for wildlife. Many migratory birds stop at the immense field of reeds at Suncheon Bay Wetland Reserve. This place was formerly known as Suncheonman Bay Ecological Park and is still listed as such on highway signboards.

Once you arrive, go to the promenade. In summer, the green suaeda japonica reeds roll and rustle hypnotically in the breeze. In winter, the reeds blaze red and flocks of hooded cranes descend upon the reserve. If you hike up to Yongsan Observatory late in the evening, you will see an amazing view of the sun’s orange orb dipping behind the mountains, bathing the surrounding padi fields in liquid amber hues.

Spring is ideal for visiting Suncheon Hyangmaesil Village, Korea’s biggest plum cultivating region. The mountainside is covered with plum bushes bursting forth in white blossoms then. “Hyang” means fragrant, and the flowers produce a sweet, heady scent. The fruit is ready to be harvested in late summer, which is also a good time for a countryside stroll, provided you go in the early morning or evening when it’s cooler.

RURAL EATS

Close to Hyangmaesil Village is Sureonsanbang Restaurant. A hidden gem set in lovely garden grounds, the set lunch is a healthy delight featuring crispy chive pancakes, lotus leaf-wrapped rice, sweet miniature pickled crabs and the most delicious smoked duck in the whole Korean peninsula.

Suncheonman Garden Restaurant is another great place to sate your appetite for Suncheon’s renowned dishes: Eels, mudskippers and cockles. These aquatic delicacies are extremely fresh. The cockles have a clean, almost clam-like flavour, and are served in a multitude of ways in the restaurant’s signature set.

Spend an afternoon at the Wild Tea House. A trip here can be coupled with a hike up to Seonamsa Temple and Seungseongyo Bridge, but the Tea House itself is a restful diversion.

On weekends, the crowd may interfere with the serenity of your experience, so come on a weekday. An ajumma (auntie) will pour you locally grown green tea in the ceremonial way. Once she realises you don’t speak Korean, she will probably leave you to your own contemplations. This is the kind of place to come to do nothing. Let your gaze linger on the forested horizon till you doze off.

CASTLE LIFE

Naganeupseong Folk Village comprises a Joseon Dynasty castle fortress and its surrounding town. It’s not just a Unesco World Heritage Site, many people actually live here. You can too at one of the guesthouses available.

In the summer, flowers erupt with vibrant colour everywhere. The low, straw-roofed buildings are laid out around courtyards, squatting close together so that navigating the alleys is like wending your way through some fairy-tale setting. Surprise “historic” experiences are hidden round almost every corner. You can learn to weave, mould ceramics, or beat your clothes with a stick by the town well, just like a real 15th-century washerwoman.

Look out for a woman along the main road selling silkworm soup. Try it. It tastes ... protein-y.

For city-dwellers weary of the urban grind, such tastes of the simple life — eco parks, rural eats and castle living — hark back to a bygone era and are a slice of heaven on Earth.

TRAVEL TIPS

  • Getting there and getting around: Many airlines operate flights to Seoul. From there, it’s best to rent a car for greater flexibility in rural areas where public transport options are patchy
  • Where to stay: Book one of the guesthouses at Naganeupseong Folk Village (suncheon.go.kr/nagan).
  • Tech support: Buy a SIM card with an unlimited data plan at the airport. You can Google search for images to show locals, which is useful when you’re trying to order food. You can also take pictures of signboards and use the Google translate function. It is easiest to search for locations by keying their phone numbers into the GPS, so make a list of the contact numbers of hotels, restaurants and attractions before you leave home.

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