When veteran actress Constance Song first met freelance make-up artist Vicky Lee, 33, on the set of Mediacorp show Tanglin, she probably never expected to go into business with Vicky and her husband Keith Wong, 35, a former civil engineer, someday.

In 2021, the Hong Kong-born couple opened the quaint Friends Café at Upper Thomson. “A courageous move during the pandemic,” says Constance. She became a regular at their popular cha chaan teng because she likes their “authentic Hong Kong” taste and brought her friend, Derick Wong, there for lunch. While chatting with Vicky, they casually asked if she was keen to expand the business.

“Wah, she was very serious about it,” laughs Constance, who also co-owns Spanish joint Bam! Restaurant. She and Derick – he’s in the logistics business and invested in Friends Café as a present to his missus who dreamed of going into F&B – became the couple’s new sleeping partners. Following feedback from customers that their first outlet’s location is too ulu, the quad opened the fancier second branch at the more central Neil Road in mid-April. “The Upper Thomson branch isn’t very crowded on weekdays because it’s too far away for most people’s convenience,” explains Vicky, who says they haven’t fully recouped their cost from the 20-month-old first branch despite the initial long queues.

“Vicky and Keith are super hardworking, capable and innovative; they’re very productive,” gushes Constance. The couple runs between the two outlets and Keith cooks in the kitchen alongside his crew. He honed his cooking skills while working at Chinese and Western restaurants and even a lobster farm while studying in Perth for seven years. He also helped to run Vicky’s parents’ kopitiam selling HK roast meats and dim sum in Upper Thomson. Vicky still takes bridal make-up bookings. “These are usually early in the morning so I have the rest of the day for the cafés,” says the perky mum-of-three. 

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Three ‘concepts’ under one roof

Friends’ second branch is in a conservation shophouse at Neil Road previously home to Sol restaurant and bar. The rent is three times what they pay for their Upper Thomson branch, which only seats 40, but it gave them a chance to convert the two-storey 80-seater into their dream eatery. “We’re trying to transport our customers into different time zones,” explains the couple about their three design concepts, although customers order from the same menu no matter where they sit.

Front yard: Ancient rural clan house 

The front yard vaguely resembles a rural “Hong Kong clan house from the Qing dynasty”, complete with bamboo-green ceramic eaves and grey bricks, which they sourced from China.

“We had a hard time getting a contractor experienced enough to put up the eaves for us because it was too much work. We finally found an uncle who helped to build a temple 40 years ago to do it!” laughs Vicky.

Stop and admire the artfully broken grey tiles that Vicky and Keith painstakingly put in to frame the door leading to the café. “They broke during transportation but that was exactly the ‘antique’ effect we wanted!”

Level 1: Classic retro cha chaan teng 

Level 2: “Colonial Hong Kong-style era” 

Vintage-y collectibles like Hong Kong movie posters – we spy In The Mood For Love – line the staircase leading to Level 2, which is decorated in what the couple describes as “the colonial HK-style era”.

A bar and custom-made leather booths matching stools and tables recycled from the previous tenant’s, lend it a more exclusive feel. A private room that is still being renovated can seat 10 people.

The glass-walled air well space is used to display the couple’s collection of retro relics, like a gramophone and old luggage.

Because the couple DIY-ed much of the work, they managed to keep the renovation costs to a relatively modest $50,000 for such a big space.

The menu

It’s a very crowded menu filled with appetisers, signature set meals, rice items, bakes, toast and drinks. Hot faves from their Thomson café, like the Beef Brisket and Beef Ball Hor Fun and Char Siew & Egg Rice are also here. However, the higher rent and swankier digs also mean that prices here are 20 percent more expensive than at the first branch.

New outlet-exclusive dai pai dong dishes

Fresh on the menu are about 16 dishes (“more on the way,” promises Vicky) inspired by Hong Kong’s famous dai pai dong (basically their version of our zhi char) and egg tarts. We check out four of the new items.

Stir-Fried Beef Cubes in Wasabi Sauce, $18 (8 Days Pick!)

Keith uses Australian tenderloin and asparagus, coating it with a creamy, not-too-spicy wasabi sauce.

He tosses it on high heat for a wok hei kiss. The result is succulent, tender nuggets and still-crunchy asparagus that makes a yummy combo. A must-order.

Baked Pork Chop Rice, $14 (8 Days Pick!)

Regulars have been asking for this cha chaan tang staple. “Our first branch didn’t have the space to fit in an oven,” explains Vicky, “but it’s finally here!” A well-marinated pork chop, chunky tomatoes to add tang, and egg fried rice is topped with mozzarella cheese and grilled for a melty cheese pull. Comfort food that’s nicely done. 

Egg Tart, $2.50 each

We were excited for this as a teatime snack, which their regulars have also been requesting. But while we liked the flaky pastry, the custard could be eggier and more fragrant. On the plus side, it wasn’t too sweet. If you are feeling peckish, the existing signature snacks like Pork Chop Pineapple Bolo Bun ($9.60) and Curry Fish Balls ($5.60) are much more satisfying.

Yuan Yang, $4

Bottom line

The details

Friends Cafe is at 78 Neil Rd, S088841. Tel: 86211125. Open daily except Tue 11.30am-3.30pm; 6pm-10.30pm. The Springleaf branch opens daily except Tue 11.30am-8.30pm. More info via Instagram. 

Photos: Kelvin Chia

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