Logo
Hamburger Menu Close
Logo

8days

Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
WhatsApp Telegram Facebook Twitter Email LinkedIn

Advertisement

Advertisement

Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?

Bangkok's Michelin Bib Gourmand chicken rice has opened at Nex. We do a taste test.

Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
Go-Ang Kaomunkai Pratunam started in 1960 as a nameless pushcart stall manned by a Hainanese immigrant to Bangkok. The name Go-Ang (meaning “Big Brother Ang”) is taken from the nickname of second-generation owner Sombat Puekpaiboon. Today, it is a casual sit-down eatery in Bangkok’s popular shopping haven, the Pratunam District. Open from 6am to 2am daily, it swarms with throngs of locals and tourists alike all day long. Pictured here: it's far hipper Singapore outpost at Nex mall.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
“Hainanese chicken rice wasn’t something very widely accepted in Thailand during my father’s time,” says 66-year-old Sombat (aka Go-Ang). “It later became a popular lunch item — but not something people would order for dinner. Now, however, people come at all times of the day. It has become comfort food for the Thai people. Chicken rice is now a part of Thai food culture.”
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
The local kitchen team at the Singapore outlet have been personally trained by Sombat himself (right in pic). Sombat and his 30-year-old son Ekkaphon Puekpaiboon (left), also known as Gear, will be stationed at the Singapore outlet for the first month of operations. Thereafter, they will shuttle between Bangkok and Singapore to ensure that consistency is maintained.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
This Singapore outpost — a joint venture with The Minor Food Group Singapore (behind chains like ThaiExpress) — opens the overseas expansion chapter for Go-Ang Kaomunkai Pratunam. According to Gear, the family had turned down many other propositions before, “because they only saw it as a business opportunity.” Dellen Soh, the chairman and CEO of Minor Food Group had been a loyal customer of their Bangkok eatery, and won the family over with his passion for food. “ We were surprised when we were approached [to open shop here] because we know Singapore has very good chicken rice and is famous for it. But we have a different chicken rice culture, and we hope to share it with more people, says Sombat diplomatically.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
Great pains were taken to source for the right ingredients to recreate the taste of their Bangkok-style Hainanese chicken rice in Singapore. Premium grains from Thailand were chosen after trying out seven types of rice over a few months. A breed of chicken is specially imported from Malaysia to make the poached chicken. “Even the salt had to be specially selected!” says Gear.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
While Pratunam’s flagship shop in Bangkok is a super basic setup by the street, with food court-esque tables and chairs, here at the Nex mall outlet, there’re marble-topped tables, blonde wood chairs, hipster murals and mercifully, air-conditioning. And that’s why prices at this local outpost are about thrice more than those in Thailand.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
Birds about 2.5kg in size are simmered in a stock for just a little over an hour. Sadly, neither the breast nor thigh cuts are as succulent or silky as one might find at the likes of Wee Nam Kee or even Five Star Kampung Chicken.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
The flavour of the chicken is also closer to that of a kampong chicken, though perhaps a little less gamey and easier to accept for those who don’t have a taste for it.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
Aromatic premium Thai rice with perfectly shaped, lustrous grains that hold just the right amount of moisture has been chosen specially to make their chicken rice. Cooked over a stove (rather than in a rice cooker) with a modest amount of chicken fat so that it is full in flavour yet not in the least bit greasy, the result is addictive.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
Each mouthful presents plump, distinct grains that has a mouthfeel almost akin to well-made sushi.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
The sauce (top in pic) that accompanies every plate of chicken rice here is the Thai jewel on the crown and very different from our local version. The tangy, earthy, umami mixture of dark soy sauce, fermented bean paste (tau cheo), vinegar, chopped ginger and green chilli might overshadow the subtle flavours of the rice and chicken — if you are a mad chicken rice purist. But we loved it and drenched our rice with it. The zing from the crunchy ginger chunks and the fresh, grassy flavours from the Jinda green chillies (they don’t use chilli padi because it’s too overwhelming) add a different dimension to the dish. We also appreciate the textural contrast from the chunky bits. This crazy good sauce is sold by the bottle at their Bangkok eatery, but isn’t available here as such for the time being.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
These boiled offal are nothing to shout about, so save your tummy for yummier stuff.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
Their ancestors might be from Hainan, but the Puekpaiboon family have also incorporated Teochew and Cantonese-style dishes into their repertoire. Double boiled soups are part of their offerings in Bangkok, with a yummy, robustly flavoured bittergourd pork rib soup (see below). The other dishes are so-so. Such as the Signature Braised Pork.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
This comforting, homely side dish made following a treasured family recipe is worth ordering.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
Similar to a Teochew-style lor bah, though with a much lighter braising liquid that has a very pronounced taste of cinnamon. Not bad.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
Unique to the Singapore outlet are the passable Chai Poh Omelette ($6.50) served with a spicy fish sauce dip and a Steamed Whole Steamed Whole Seabass, $28.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
To us, Singaporean-style Hainanese chicken rice trumps the Thai version because of the perfectly balanced holy trinity of juicy meat, flavourful rice and chilli. However, give Go-Ang Pratunam’s version a go because its outstanding rice and sauce — oh that sauce — will win you over even if you aren’t crazy about the not-quite-succulent bird.
Thailand’s Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice Vs Singapore's Hainanese Chicken Rice — Which Is Better?
#B1-05/06 NEX Shopping Mall, 23 Serangoon Central S556083, Tel: 6509-9980. Open daily 11am–10pm, last orders 9.30pm. www.facebook.com/goangsg. Photos: Ealbert Ho
Follow TODAY on WhatsApp
By Gu Yuan Lin
Published October 24, 2018
Updated October 24, 2018
WhatsApp Telegram Facebook Twitter Email LinkedIn

Let’s admit it: Singaporeans are snobs when it comes to Hainanese chicken rice. Because our hawkers have made an art out of perfecting their recipes, and just about every self-respecting chicken rice seller has a USP — be it exclusively sourced chicken, house-made chilli sauce, one-of-a-kind herbal soup or even just free-flow rice. Why would we care for an import from Bangkok? Not because it has a Bib Gourmand mention — our very own Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice boasts that. But because it is pretty good, and boasts a refreshing Thai twist. Bangkok's award-winning Go-Ang Pratunam Chicken Rice opened its doors at Nex mall on 20 October, and we headed down to see what the fuss was about.

Read more of the latest in

8days Explore now

Advertisement

Trending

Content is loading...

Popular

Content is loading...

Advertisement

Stay in the know. Anytime. Anywhere.

Subscribe to our newsletter for the top features, insights and must reads delivered straight to your inbox.

By clicking subscribe, I agree for my personal data to be used to send me TODAY newsletters, promotional offers and for research and analysis.

Logo

Todayonline.com and Today Online domains and apps are now part of 'Channelnewsasia.com' domain

Games image

Get your daily dose of fun

Try our word games, puzzles & quizzes

PLAY NOW
Play games, quizzes & more

Play games, quizzes & more

Close Button