Jia Yuen Eating House is a zi char joint well-known among army dudes who served national service (NS) in the past decade – especially for those based in camps near Jia Yuen’s Crane Road kopitiam in Joo Chiat. The eatery earned a reputation as a supper staple for its generously-portioned, reliably yummy creamy salted egg chicken rice paired with a sunny-side-up egg — this writer used to be a regular customer while serving NS. The decadent dish features fried chicken chunks drenched in a thick gravy of salted egg yolk, butter, curry leaves, chilli padi and evaporated milk (this was more popular than the ‘dryer’ plain salted egg version) and used to be available for bulk delivery up till 2am.

In June this year, the eatery relocated to Tanjong Pagar XChange, a shopping area within Tanjong Pagar MRT station. Now rebranded simply as Jia Yuen, the self-service spot occupies two facing units there, with a roomier air-conditioned dining area that seats 70 (up from 40 at Joo Chiat). The fancier space also boasts an expanded menu, selling yong tau foo doused with creamy salted egg sauce alongside its signature zi char dishes.

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Popular among army boys

Stanley Yeo, 32, son of Jia Yuen’s towkay Johnny Yeo, 58, explains that they had to relocate as the Crane Road coffeeshop (below) they’ve been renting for the last seven years was sold off by their landlord.

This is their second relocation. Jia Yuen originally operated in Tai Seng in 2010. The landlord of that coffeeshop closed it in 2015, which was when they moved to Joo Chiat.

The eatery found an incidental star in its creamy salted egg chicken rice among ravenous lads doing their national service starting from its Tai Seng locale. As the story goes, Stanley’s brother – then serving in the Singapore Air Force – introduced Jia Yuen’s grub to his squadron. “People started ordering our creamy salted egg chicken. Word spread and it became our signature dish – then we started getting [bigger and more regular] orders, especially for supper,” he says.

According to Stanley, Jia Yuen’s popularity stretched to other air force bases and army camps – on a good night, they’d average around 200 orders. The commando camp also ordered “around 500 packets” for celebrations about “twice a year”.

Why relocate to Tanjong Pagar?

But why relocate to the CBD, when many of Jia Yuen's customers order via delivery from army camps in other parts of Singapore? Stanley explains that they saw a large drop in deliveries after the start of the pandemic, both in terms of large scale events and regular supper orders. Even after things opened up, their delivery was about “30 percent” lower vs pre-covid times.

Thus, he sees the “convenient and comfortable” CBD locale as a chance to reduce their reliance on deliveries. “Parking was always a problem at Crane Road, so we didn’t have many walk-in customers. There’s ample parking now at Tanjong Pagar, we are right next to the MRT, and it is air-conditioned. So we think the walk-in crowd will be much stronger,” he says. “And maybe we’ll remind some guys of their army days now that they’ve grown up [and are working in the CBD] (laughs).” 

True enough, there have been long-time customers who visit Jia Yuen’s new digs and reminisce about their army days, back when they ordered food to be delivered to camp. “They will tell us what camp they came from and which period,” says Stanley with a laugh.

Stanley shares that the relocation to Tanjong Pagar only cost them around $20K as Jia Yuen “took the units as they were”. Though rent is about “20 percent higher” now, footfall has grown by “40 percent”. “But that’s mainly on weekdays, lah. For Saturday, we’re still okay, but it’s really a ghost town on Sunday,” he shares. Naturally, deliveries to NSmen still make up a portion (albeit a smaller one) of their sales now – Stanley rattles off a number of camps they’d recently made deliveries to. 

Prices unchanged for set dishes, including creamy salted egg chicken rice

Order Jia Yuen’s individual zi char set dishes (which come with rice and a sunny-side-up egg) by picking your protein – $8 for deep-fried chicken chunks, $10 for fish or pork, and $12 for pork ribs or pork belly – and the style it’ll be cooked in. This includes their signature Creamy Salted Egg Sauce, Cereal (below), Curry and Thai Sweet Chilli.

According to Stanley, the prices and portions for the set dishes remain unchanged after the move from Joo Chiat as they “wanted to provide a good deal” for office workers. They also aren’t charging for GST or service.

The same dishes can be ordered in larger a la carte portions ($15 to $75) for sharing among groups.

New on the menu: dry yong tau foo with salted egg sauce 

Jia Yuen now also offers dry yong tau foo. Deep-fried fish paste-stuffed bitter gourd, eggplant or lady’s finger ($0.80 each) that come plain, or stir-fried with cereal or mala sauce (both $2 each). As mentioned — you can even have it cloaked with a soupier version of their signature creamy salted egg sauce (pictured, $2). Sinful. Stanley chuckles: “Some think yong tau foo is too healthy – this is the unhealthy version [for those who want it].”

Sadly, no more late-night deliveries

While Jia Yuen still delivers bulk orders for free islandwide, Stanley says that they no longer deliver food late into the night. Not just because they cannot “suka suka (Malay for like, meaning to do as one wishes) open whenever [they] like” at their new location due to the fixed operating hours there, but also ’cos “we don’t want to do deliveries at midnight anymore lah. It’s quite tiring for my kitchen staff and us”.

Advance notice of “at least a few hours” is needed for large orders of 25 portions and above – the kitchen now closes at 10.15pm daily. 

Jia Yuen is at #B1-29/49 Tanjong Pagar MRT Station, 120 Maxwell Rd, S069119. Tel: 9712-0259. Open daily 10.30am – 10.30pm (yong tau foo available 8am – 8pm). More info via Facebook & Instagram. Delivery via Foodpanda & Deliveroo. Free delivery for bulk orders (min 25 portions).

Photos: Jia Yuen

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