Fashion photography in the age of Instagram

SINGAPORE — Fashion photography can be a brutal business.

Most of us are familiar only with the glamorous aspects of the trade, like the models, elaborate sets, and artistry from the likes of Helmut Newton, Mario Testino and Steven Meisel. But putting together a fashion editorial or print campaign can involve many hours of pre- and post-production work, and calls for exceptional technical expertise.

But as cameras, photo-editing apps and photography tutorials become more readily available, advanced and affordable, it is now harder than ever for young Singaporean fashion photographers to establish themselves as professionals in an ocean of hobbyists.

“I’ve lost jobs before, because other people have taken over the jobs for free or for a cheaper price. But I stand by the prices I charge. You don’t see Chanel dropping its prices because other fashion brands are cheaper,” said 28-year-old freelance runway photographer Wesley Kow, who also works on fashion editorials 
and events.

To stand out, Kow, who says he got his start in fashion photography eight years ago shooting shows such as the Audi Fashion Festival and Orchard Fashion Runway, pays special attention to the aesthetic of his runway shots — making sure that the clothes rather than the models are the focus of his photos — and even dresses up for the occasion by donning pieces that are “in line with the style of the designer”.

“By dressing fashionably, when you shoot, you see things differently too,” he said, adding that one has to appreciate fashion to be a fashion photographer.

Then, over the years, he realised other people were starting to do 
the same.

“(The business) started off well, then it slowly tapered down because of the economy, and the rise of a lot of so-called photographers. What I am doing at this point is re-inventing the whole thing,” he said, referring to his photography venture. “I am trying to become a social media photographer, so whatever I shoot goes onto online media immediately.”

Like Kow, Singaporean photographer Lenne Chai had to find ways to build a viable career in fashion photography. Speaking to TODAY, she recalled how she had to “secretly” work in other jobs to supplement her income while building her brand.

“I remember not being able to draw money with my ATM card. It was damn jialat (Singlish for ‘terrible’), said the 25-year-old. It took about four years before she was finally able to make a living from photography. “Although it was tough, I didn’t feel like it was the end of the road. I don’t think it occurred to me to give up at all. I really love what I do, and I feel like being able to do something I love so much — for money or not — is a privilege.”

Since then, Chai has shot for publications all around the world such as Teen Vogue US, Nylon and Elle Girl Japan and Harper’s Bazaar Singapore, as well as fashion and lifestyle brands such as Bang & Olufsen. She has also worked with models such as Lily Cole and Chiharu Okunugi. Chai splits her time between Japan and Singapore, and plans to move to Los Angeles in April.

AIMING HIGH

One reason why photographers like Chai have decided to move on to bigger markets is because they have realised, especially considering the competition, that it is necessary to keep learning and improving even though it may be even harder to stand out in big cities already saturated with photographers — many of whom are willing to fork out big sums for elaborate shoots just to be featured in big-name magazines.

“(I thought shooting) Lily Cole would be my big break, but it was on that shoot that I realised how inadequate I was as a Singapore youth, and that was what inspired me to leave my comfortable environment to push myself to be a bit more worldly so my work could improve,” she said. “I think photography is very honest, in the sense that the camera doesn’t lie. If your worldview is a certain way, it comes through in your pictures in a way that you may not be able to put in words. The perception of a 21-year-old Singaporean youth is very different from someone who is 30 and has seen the world.”

Singaporean fashion photography duo Caleb & Gladys, who only moved to New York about a month ago, is already finding inspiration from being among world-class talents.

“New York is a huge market, and there are just so many talents over here,” said 27-year-old Gladys Ng of the duo, which has shot for international magazines such as Vogue, Esquire, Harper’s Bazaar, L’Officiel, Elle and Tatler. “It’s really good, way better than back home. Everyone is just so good. It’s even more stressful, but I think when you put yourself in an environment like that, you become stronger, you force yourself to match up to the competition.”

Since going to New York, Ng says she and Lim have discovered how important it is for photographers to develop their distinct, personal style, whether they are known for their photos on Instagram or on more traditional media platforms such as magazines.

“There are a lot of Instagram photographers, like models who are photographers. Everybody is a photographer, in that sense, so competition (now) is stronger,” Ng said. “That is why I feel that to stand out, you really need to have your own style.”

She continued, “There are many different clients, and they want different styles in your photography. You need to be someone whose (sense of) style is so strong that people see you for your vision and your final artistic direction. You need to have that in your work to stand out on social media, since there are so many photographers.”

On Kow’s part, although he plans to remain in Singapore for the foreseeable future, he aims to keep pushing himself to offer products unique to his brand. He is working on producing fashion films — typically, a short video that complements a print campaign — and is also collaborating with clients to create content using photography and videography.

“(Fashion photography) requires passion. Without the passion, you can’t push yourself to further heights,” Kow said. “Before (I was exposed to fashion) I was really not a fashionable person, and I used to wear baggy clothes. But since I got introduced to all of this, I am more in tune with what fashion is all about, and I have learnt to appreciate fashion and how it makes a big difference (to people).”