Singapore — On paper, this newly revamped Greenwood haunt doesn’t appear to stray far from the rustic European fare it used to proffer under former chef-patron David Thien. It now sports a comparatively warmer and somewhat more whimsical new look (complete with an overhead sign in bucolic lettering and sprouting leaves), and it is still a traditional flame rotisserie restaurant.

New chef at the helm, Japanese-born, European-trained Masashi Horiuchi, brings world-class precision to the proceedings, but opts to flout popular mod-European trends for a heartier yet no less refined meal. The menu stays true to its commitment to robust classics, with generously portioned servings and platters designed to be shared. (There’s even an aptly dubbed Huntsmen’s Table in the corner that sits 10 comfortably.)

To start, the restaurant’s charcuterie board (S$30) is good for two or three people and features a smorgasbord of some of its finest preserved meats — a selection of homemade foie gras au torchon, rillettes and terrines that clearly benefit from the kitchen’s decision to use pork neck and liver as the standard binding ingredient. Also included in the platter is a portion of authentic pate en croute — rich with duck foie gras, pork, veal, forest mushrooms, pork liver and consomme jelly, all wrapped in a delicate pastry.

Speaking of which, a must-try (even if you have to share the dish to conserve stomach space) is the signature quiche (S$12.50, served with a side of salad). Its aromatic short-crust pastry was the perfect complement to a richly savoury blend of forest mushrooms (bole porcini to be precise), Swiss gruyere cheese, garlic-herb butter, eggs and Swiss cream.

And what Japanese chef wouldn’t want sneak in his country’s top produce? In this case, it’s Japanese corn, celebrated in a creamy more-salty-than-sweet corn soup (S$12.50 for a rather hefty serving) piqued with a little roasted corn garnished with more roasted corn, popcorn and a drizzle of parsley oil. For the mains, the restaurant’s famed flame-rotisserie suckling pig (S$35/S$68), crisp skin and all, is another must-try. The herb-crusted rack of lamb (S$39), also benefited from a slow roast in the traditional flame rotisserie, served with a customary gravy for most of the roasts, made with veal jus and caramelised onions. It worked equally well with the roasted Anxin chicken (S$19 for half, S$35 for a whole), which was well-seasoned but a tad dry that evening.

Standing out among a humble selection of desserts was the meringue glacee (S$12) - essentially a scoop each of house-made raspberry sorbet and vanilla ice cream, topped with baked meringue cones and pistachio, and served with macerated berries. It offered a refreshing contrast to a comforting apple tart (S$12 with a scoop of ice cream). The latter’s thin and crispy pie featured French brisee short-crust pastry topped with Fuji apple, butter and brown sugar, and paired with house-made vanilla ice cream, made for a delightfully familiar and all-round satisfying finish to the meal. DON MENDOZA

Shelter In The Woods

Where: 22 Greenwood Avenue

Telephone: 6466 6225

Opening hours: Mon, Wed, Thurs, 6.30pm to 10pm (last order); Fri and Sat, 6pm to 10pm (last order); Sun, 6pm to 9.30pm (last order); closed on Tue.