SINGAPORE — The trend of tapas (and tapas-inspired) bars that should have come to its natural end last year seems to have gained new momentum.

And it has had at least this critic questioning just how much we are willing to pay to eat fashionably. Well, based on the recent mid-week dinner crowd at new Spanish dining concept and cocktail bar FOC (a clever use of the Catalan word for fire), there is an increasingly mixed bunch who can’t get enough.

The best thing about this latest dining option is the impressive band of talents behind it — a collaboration between Chef Nandu Jubany (of Michelin-starred Can Jubany in the Catalan county of Osona), Chef Jordi Noguera formerly from FoodBar DaDa and award-winning mixologist Dario Knox, previously from Catalunya Restaurant. Together, they have combined a perceptive menu of Catalan and Mediterranean small plates with a selection of deliciously inventive cocktails (complete with its own solera system to age a range of spirits).

Standout dishes were a mix of traditional and playful takes on the cuisine of the region. The watermelon gazpacho (S$12) — which gets its name from the use of watermelon juice in place of water — was a refreshingly savoury ensemble served with a delicate charcoal-smoked olive oil ice cream; a highly-recommended start to any meal. Another tasty dish that helped us ease into our casual though potentially pricey dinner was the mushroom croquettes (S$8 for four pieces).

But while the “coca” with anchovies, charcoal grilled peppers and eggplant, and “spherical” Idiazabal cheese was a creative way to enjoy the traditional Catalan flatbread, at S$16, it was a rather indulgent consideration. I would instead recommend topping up a little to splurge on another serving of pulpo a la Gallega (S$22) — octopus Galician style; sous vide and finished with a generous dusting of paprika and olive oil, paired perfectly with roughly mashed potatoes.

Chef Noguera’s popular squid-ink paella comes with bits of squid and garlic mayonnaise (S$22). Enough for two to share, it is a sumptuous filler if you’re not on a no-carb diet, even if the topping of four prawns and four clams came across a tad miserly.

Unlike the more traditional dishes that appear to fare better, the inspired serving of scallops with “soy caviar” (S$20) lacked complexity of flavours. The sago soaked in soya sauce was a playful touch but was not enough to save the dish from its rather one-dimensional flavours, helped only with a little sweetened bonito stock. Best to savour a familiar serving of pork belly confit (S$14 for four pieces) served with cauliflower puree. Or even the crispy pork taco (S$14 for two pieces) with pulled pork piqued with a touch of homemade kimchi sauce.

The same could be said about the two desserts we tried. The espuma de crema Catalana (S$8) — a revised crema Catalana “FOC Style” — was a wild ensemble of lemon caramel, crema Catalana foam, toffee ice cream, macerated strawberries, more foam, topped with caramelised sugar. I couldn’t help but yearn for the tradtional crema Catalana. Similarly, the FOC Chocolate Burger (S$12), with its toasted white chocolate shell filled with vanilla mousse, strawberries, mango, mint and chocolate mousse patty, was an impressive sight that needed a more distinct hit of, well, chocolate. DON MENDOZA

Where: 40 Hongkong Street

Tel: 6100 4040

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, noon to 2.30pm, 6pm to 11pm