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Malaysian Eatery Offers Tasty Pan Mee, Fish Soup Noodles & Free Rice Wine

GO Noodle House serves affordable, delish noodles.

GO Noodle House serves affordable, delish noodles.

GO Noodle House serves affordable, delish noodles.

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Most Malaysia-trotting Singaporeans are familiar with GO Noodle House, the noodle chain that has spawned 37 outlets across Malaysia and Australia since it first opened in 2014. Their super tasty fish bone broth and springy, chewy noodles are a huge draw, so we’re stoked that the owners recently opened their first Singapore outlet at 313@Somerset. The 94-seater restaurant is tricked out like an old Chinese inn replete with arched door frames, glossy dark wood furnishings and a red-framed gong that sounds every time someone orders a bottle of aged Shaoxing wine, which admittedly, isn’t often.

1 of 10 Free shot of wine

Most people are happy to receive a complimentary shot of three-year aged Shaoxing rice wine with their order of any noodle soup dish. Lest you down it in a single gulp (which we suppose you’re welcome to do), know that it’s meant to be poured into the umami-laden broth purportedly made with a secret mix of 40 types of fish bones including mackerel.

  • 2 of 10 Secret fish soup

    The master stock, which started when the chain was established in 2014, has been simmering away continuously in a secret location in Shah Alam. Singapore’s share of this tasty brew is transported across the Causeway in -20°C frozen blocks. Diners can choose from a bevy of soup noodle dishes like Fuzhou Fish Ball, Pork Ball or Handmade Fish Paste. You then pick the Superior Soup or Homemade Spicy Soup as your base and either mian xian (thicker rice noodles, like chor bee hoon) or regular bee hoon. There’s also a selection of excellent pan mee and fried side dishes like You Tiao and Five Spice Meat Rolls.

  • 3 of 10 Signature Bursting Meatball with superior soup, $10.90 (8 DAYS Pick!)

    Despite their name, our meatballs did no bursting. Rather, they are much like regular processed pork balls that you get at a steamboat restaurant but filled with a centre of tightly packed minced pork. Their flavour is off the charts, reverberating with the rich umami of ti poh (dried sole) even if the restaurant insists that it’s made with nothing but pork and sesame oil. We have these with the silky mian xian that had practically no bite to them. You could literally chew these noodles with your gums. The soup, like the pork balls, is bold and robust, singing with the concentrated brininess of fish bones cooked long and slow.

  • 4 of 10 Double Bursting Fishball (Fish Roe) with Homemade Spicy Soup, $14.90 (8 DAYS Pick!)

    Another umami bomb, these springy teardrop-shaped fish balls harbour a molten centre of pink fish roe. The bee hoon is smooth and slippery, and the soup just spicy enough with a mild sourish tang from Chinese black vinegar.

  • 5 of 10 Special Dark Sauce Noodles with Onsen Egg, $8.90 (8 DAYS Pick!)

    The texture of these flat noodles made with wheat and tapioca flour is fantastic — supple, with lots of bite. The pan mee here, available thick or thin (we chose thick), are rolled out into sheets and cut twice a day at the restaurant (the other noodles are imported from Malaysia). They are extra luscious coated in the rich sweet-savoury dark sauce and satiny onsen egg yolk. The noodles are served with a handful of greens and some sliced black fungus, with condiments like minced pork, fried anchovies and shallots on the side. What is pan mee anyway? Think a dry, chilli and sauce-spiked Malaysian version of our local ban mian. And this version is yum.

  • 6 of 10 Hakka Sauce Pan Mee with Century Egg, $9.90 (8 DAYS Pick!)

    These chewy noodles are super tasty tossed in pork lard and shallot oil, and served with fried anchovies, minced pork, century egg and chilli oil. Tossed together, it has the perfect balance of textures and unapologetically umami flavours that transport you straight to a gritty street-side stall in Malaysia.

  • 7 of 10 Five Spice Meat Roll, $4.90

    Crisp bean curd skin holds a filling of too-tightly-packed minced pork that’s heavy on the five-spice and a tad too sweet for our taste.

  • 8 of 10 Gold coin, $6.90

    This made-from-scratch circles of bak kwa are meaty, sweet and tender, but lack the one thing that would have taken them from good to great: the distinct smokiness of a charcoal grill. Still, a satisfying enough snack if you’re craving a minimalist portion of bak kwa.

  • 9 of 10 Crispy Fuchuk, $4.90

    Shatteringly crisp squares of fried bean curd skin sandwich the barest slick of fish paste in the centre. There’s so little fish paste in them that if you chew a tad too quickly, you’d never know it was there.

  • 10 of 10 Bottom line

    Excellent noodles, fish balls and pork balls that are as full-flavoured as only the Malaysians could make them. That they are so accessibly located and affordable are a lovely bonus. The snacks we tried were not quite as impressive, but they’ll do as cheerful appetisers if you need something to munch on before your noodles hit the table.

    GO Noodle House is at #B3-37/38 313@Somerset, 313 Orchard Rd. S238895. Open daily 10am-10pm. Last orders at 9.30pm https://www.facebook.com/gonoodlehousesingapore/

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