SINGAPORE — Sometimes, it’s nice to return to an old favourite that has withstood the dining scene’s fickle trends. One such example is Absinthe, the French restaurant helmed by chef Francois Mermillod, which opened in December 2008.

In June last year, Absinthe moved to a sprawling three-storey shophouse along Boat Quay. Its designers cleverly transformed the space into a beguiling slice of France with warm brick walls, dark wood wainscoting, vintage industrial light bulbs and sumptuous lime-green soft furnishings (a nod to the name Absinthe, commonly known as “the green spirit”).

And once the meal begins, it becomes apparent why the restaurant has stood the test of time. This is one well-oiled machine in which the service and food come with just the right balance of familiarity and formality. It probably helps that the restaurant has been run by the same general manager, Vincent Jaureguiberry, and Mermillod since its inception.

While the cuisine is classically French, many dishes have been anointed with chef Mermillod’s creative touches. A foie gras terrine (S$29), for instance, is layered with slivers of smoked duck breast, which gives the terrine an extra savouriness — it is quite addictive when enjoyed smeared on the little loaf of brioche that comes with it.

Plump Hokkaido scallops (S$26) are gently seared, so their centres are still velvety, and served with a disc of braised daikon arranged to look like another scallop on the plate. The flavours of this dish are beautifully smoky and briny, and lifted by a whisper of sweetness from a crown of foamy lemon-thyme emulsion.

There are certainly some Japanese inflections in several dishes, but flavour-wise, there is no mistaking their French roots. The starter of kingfish or hamachi carpaccio (S$26) may stray from the French repertoire, but its flavours are grounded by rich, grassy olive oil and the brininess of Aquitaine caviar that crowns the fish.

Some dishes stay thoroughly true to their French origins, such as the unimpeachable duck leg confit (S$42), served with creamy fingerling potatoes, wilted rocket and a robust madeira sauce.

Where the kitchen seemed to falter a little was at dessert. Our apple-banana crumble (S$15) had a luscious filling, but the crumble topping tasted like nothing more than crushed butter cookies. And the madeleines that arrived with our coffee were a tad dry.

Still, there is plenty to keep loyal diners returning to Absinthe, not least its beautiful setting and smooth service — and that reliably good French dining experience. ANNETTE TAN

Absinthe

Where: 71/72 Boat Quay

Telephone: 6222 9068

Opening hours:

Monday to Friday noon to 2.30pm, 4pm to 6.30pm, 6.30pm to 10.30pm

Saturday and Sunday 6.30pm to 10.30pm