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Bochinche | 3.5 stars

SINGAPORE — Cynthia Chua sure knows how to pick them. The founder and CEO of Spa Esprit Group recently teamed up with Argentine chef Diego Jacquet to establish Bochinche, the new 100-seater restaurant along the quiet stretch of Martin Road, which is sited above her new and already very popular coffee joint, Common Man Roasters.

SINGAPORE — Cynthia Chua sure knows how to pick them. The founder and CEO of Spa Esprit Group recently teamed up with Argentine chef Diego Jacquet to establish Bochinche, the new 100-seater restaurant along the quiet stretch of Martin Road, which is sited above her new and already very popular coffee joint, Common Man Roasters.

Bochinche, which loosely translates to “ruckus” in Spanish, signals a departure from Chua’s typically ramshackle chic restaurants such as House and Open Door Policy. Its interiors feel more grown up and masculine, with lots of dark wood and sumptuous leather. Jacquet is a familiar name in London where he has two popular restaurants, Casa Malevo and Zoilo. The latter is where Chua first sampled his food, which is best described as the traditional fare of Argentina’s different regions presented in small plates.

Not surprisingly, Bochinche’s menu is largely similar to Zoilo’s, with dishes such as grilled provoleta cheese served with honey and almonds (S$16), whose flavours are simple and honest, yet pack a punch. This is food you can eat a lot of and often, which is always a winning formula. There’s a bit of that nose-to-tail thing going on here, with dishes like the more-ish braised pig head croquettes (S$15) and veal sweetbreads served with onion jam and preserved lemons (S$27). Both were absolutely scrumptious and, along with dessert treats like the milk cake (S$15) and creme brulee (S$17), are the very things worth coming back here for.

Also on the menu are Jacquet’s award-winning “Provenzal” chips (S$12). They are cooked using a laborious three-step process that involves parboiling the potatoes and poaching them in oil before they hit the deep-fat fryer. This gives the thick fries fluffy insides and a thin, very crisp crust. But because they are served piping hot in a small bowl, they lose their crispness very quickly, rendering them limp in just a few minutes, so eat them quickly.

If you like lamb, order the duo of grilled rump and braised shoulder (S$29) served on a bed of black quinoa with golden raisins. The rump is simply grilled and nice enough, but the braised shoulder wrapped in caul fat is divine.

There were some misses the night we visited, including a run-of-the-mill caramelised pork belly (S$29) served with a slightly undercooked prawn. But overall, Bochinche serves up a very enjoyable dining experience matched by a list of Argentinean wines and cocktails that easily work up to a very good night out. Annette Tan

Where: 22 Martin Road, #02-01

Telephone: 6235 4990

Opening hours:

Tuesday to Thursday: 5.30pm to midnight

Friday and Saturday: 5.30pm to 2am

Sunday: 5.30pm to midnight

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