SINGAPORE — During his 29-year career, Chef Jean-Philippe Patruno has successfully purveyed Spanish food, first in London at establishments like Barrafina and in Singapore at the now-defunct Bomba Paella Bar. His new restaurant Dehesa, therefore, is expectedly similar — Spanish small plates in a trendy, casual environment — except the menu is dedicated to using the entire animal, be it fish, pig, lamb or cow.

Though the portions here are small, they are relentlessly hearty, and this is most evident in that great totem of the nose-to-tail movement, the pig’s head croquette (S$28). The entire pig’s head is first cooked for three hours and its meat and gelatinous bits packed and moulded into fat discs. They are then breaded and deep-fried.

To accompany the croquette is a silky mound of potato puree and a ravioli crown that breaks open to reveal an oozy egg yolk. It’s a fine dish, but one that veers on the side of being too rich if not for its deeply delicious sauce that is brightened with tarragon and a sweet, oniony lilt.

The sharing of dishes, therefore, is important to a meal here, so that you can save your calories and stomach space for things like the earthy duck hearts on toast (S$13). The hearts are cooked to a lovely tenderness and countered by their syrupy sauce gleaned from the duck’s juices and membrillo (quince paste). This, however, is a dish that requires immediate attention since allowing it to sit in its own heat quickly changes the texture of the hearts from tender to chewy.

During our first visit, the la la (clams) with chillies and sherry (S$15) were bathed in a sauce so sour, we had to drain the shells of any broth before we could taste the meat. Two weeks later, when we sampled it again, it was a different dish altogether — the briny broth was mellow with thyme and hit with just enough of a spicy kick, so that we were able to enjoy the sweet, natural flavours of the clams. When asked about the change, Patruno replied that he had done away with the lemon rind and juice that defined the dish’s first iteration.

With his open kitchen facing diners in the restaurant’s narrow confines, Patruno gets to experience his guest’s every expression first-hand. This can be demoralising for any chef who has to witness a grimace or a hand-gesture that conveys negativity towards his food. But Patruno is refreshingly attentive and open-minded, seemingly happy to improve on a dish right there and then, like when we commented that the sauce accompanying the crispy tripe (S$14) needed more brightness. Five minutes later, a new dish appeared, its flavours lifted by the addition of capers and chillies.

No doubt, a restaurant’s merits lie in consistently good food, but its longevity often hinges on its chef’s genial ability to roll with the punches. Taste, after all, is intrinsically personal, and a chef who understands and accommodates the fact that one man’s truffle-scented sauce is another man’s nightmare is a chef that patrons would happily return to. ANNETTE TAN

Dehesa

Where:

12 North Canal Road

Telephone:

6221 7790

Opening hours:

Monday to Friday 11.30am to 2.30pm, 5.30pm until late

Saturday 5.30pm until late

Closed on Sunday

Click to eat: For more delish deals and news on what’s hot on the scene, download the 8 Days Eat App at http://www16.mediacorp.sg/8days/8daysapp2.html.