In search of the best Portugese egg tarts in Macau

MACAU — You cannot go to Macau without trying its famed Portuguese egg tart — a delectable burst of thick creamy custard against a crispy crust that leaves a satisfying film of grease on your fingers. We tried putting The Parisian’s concierge to the test by asking for suggestions for under-the-radar egg-cellent tarts to sink our teeth in, and they suggested Lord Stow’s Bakery — synonymous with the best Portuguese egg tarts in Macau — set up by Englishman Andrew Stow in 1989.

The concierge also proposed the equally famous Margaret’s Cafe e Nata, a stall opened by Stow’s ex-wife Margaret Wong after the pair split.

All’s good if unimaginative. So we found two more and stacked the offerings against one another.

Lord Stow’s Bakery

Price: 9MP a piece (S$1.55)

Yay: The king of all Portuguese egg tarts, and there is a reason why. Its buttery and flaky crust — which has an almost croissant-like texture — is complemented by a firm, pudding-like custard that has just the right amount of burnt caramel for sweetness. The best of the lot we have tasted. If standing around snacking is too exhausting, just around the corner from its original shop at Coloane Island is the Garden Cafe, so you can indulge in these tarts while drinking a cup of tea.

Nay: Coloane Island is a humble and rustic fishing village, and while it makes an interesting spot for sightseeing (the waterfront Chapel of St Francis Xavier is a must-see), the reclusiveness of the location also means it is tough to get a taxi. You would be better off asking your cab driver to wait, or prepare coins for a bus ride back to civilisation. There is another outlet at The Grand Canal Shoppes Venetian.

Various locations, visit 
www.lordstow.com

Margaret’s Cafe e Nata

Yay: When eaten piping hot, these babies are very similar to the ones from Lord Stow’s, except their shells are flakier and their filling richer. They are also less sweet. Great for a breakfast treat. (Tip: Get a sense of how the tart would taste by trying out KFC’s egg tarts — they are made with Margaret’s recipe, which they had bought.)

Nay: This place is not known for its service, nor its ambience. A grungy-looking store with limited seats and food served on paper plates, it is best known (other than for its egg tarts) for not allowing its customers to snap photos within the shop. It has been said that the grumpy ladies in the shop will not hesitate to yell if they see you try. They serve other baked goods such as carrot cake, coconut cake and cheese cake, but they are bland, so you can give them a miss.

Gum Loi Building, G/F, 17A Rua Alm Costa Cabral R/C, Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro

San Hou Lei

Price: 16MP (bird’s nest tart), 13MP (milk tart)

Yay: The crust looks tough and powdery at first glance, but was surprisingly crisp when we took a bite. It had more of a biscuit-crumbly texture than a flaky one. We tried the bird’s nest tart as well as the milk tart — they both tasted similar, except that the bird’s nest one had a faint taste of the ingredient that gave it its name. Both are not too sweet, and have a creamy and milky custard filling.

Nay: The presentation of the tarts leave much to be desired: They are served in no-fuss flowery plates and you wolf them down while sharing tables with others in their cramped eatery. The tarts are not served piping hot — they are picked from trays underneath a scruffy-looking table.

13-14 Rua do Regedor, Taipa Island

Hello Kitty Obrigado

Price: 10MP

Yay: I did not expect much from a store that had a Hello Kitty connection. After all, these things are often more about the cat than food quality. I was wrong. This cute little store, which sells Hello Kitty-shaped cookies and printed macarons as well, offers a delightful selection of tarts, including green tea flavoured and cheese flavoured egg tarts. The cheese tart we tried was piping hot and rich in flavour, and the crust melted into our mouths. Shockingly great.

Nay: The tart was super tiny compared to the typical sizes offered by other stalls. In fact, it was more like a kid’s snack than a normal palm-sized treat. I guess we do fork out more for the brand.

5 Travessa de Domingoe