Cool collaboration
The next time you find yourself having to wait in line, even when you (a) have a VIP card that states you are a very privileged customer; (b) are a member of the media; or (c) already flashed that bright set of pearlies; just remember: Even big-time celebs like Julianne Moore, Helena Christensen, Chace Crawford and Alexander Wang had to line up too.
The next time you find yourself having to wait in line, even when you (a) have a VIP card that states you are a very privileged customer; (b) are a member of the media; or (c) already flashed that bright set of pearlies; just remember: Even big-time celebs like Julianne Moore, Helena Christensen, Chace Crawford and Alexander Wang had to line up too.
Not before they were famous, mind you. But last Tuesday, when they attended a party held in celebration of H&M’s latest collaboration with Maison Martin Margiela, in New York City.
While Moore and Christensen — and their significant others — waited patiently in the queue to gain access to the pop-up store on the top floor, Crawford and Wang opted for the lifts ... but were turned away and asked to head down again instead.
Housed in a nine-storey, nondescript building at 5 Beekman Street in the Big Apple’s financial district, H&M converted the top floor into a pop-up store, with the men’s and women’s collections cleverly separated by fitting rooms down the middle. Scurrying from rack to rack in a mad flurry were hipsters, models (Brit supermodel Stella Tennant was one of the first few who got her mitts on those exclusive pieces), fashionistas and arty-farty types, all trying to get a hold on the re-editions of some of Margiela’s best works yet.
Celebrated choreographer of contemporary dance, Anne Teresa de Keersmaeker, crafted a hauntingly resplendent and beautiful performance in squares of sand (we heard it was flown over from Miami). The dance presentation ran throughout the evening on different floors as de Keersmaeker and her dancers peeled off the garments from the collection while performing, creating live and spontaneous art installations.
Special art installations using Margiela’s H&M pieces and accessories were unveiled as we trotted through the 60-year-old building: American artist Daniel Arsham recreated his famed Hiding Figure; Paris-born Noemie Goudal composed a series of sculptures using the reversed denim jacket and jeans; and Frederique Chauveaux projected her works on Margiela shirts.
Maison Martin Margiela for H&M collection will be available at H&M (1 Grange Road, Orchard Building Level 1) on Nov 15 at 8am.
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Creative advisor of H&M, Margareta van den Bosch on…
… upcoming collaborations.
This (year), we have three – Marni, Anna dello Russo and this – (MMM). It’s far too much. Next year, we would (only have) one. We also want to focus on what we are doing ourselves; we have a lot of brilliant designers in-house.
… taking a risk with fashion.
We like to surprise our customers. Some might think that (the MMM x H&M collection) is a little odd but some … have been waiting for it. Sometimes, I think you have to dare to do something different, (never) playing safe all the time. (Laughs)
… Maison Martin Margiela for H&M collection.
It’s done with humour and in an artistic way to twist the classics. (It) brought out a lot of the spirit of what Margiela stands out.
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Dream Team
It’s fair to say that the partnership between H&M and Maison Martin Margiela is exciting hipsters and arty types alike. It’s a unique entry that showcases a re-edition of iconic Margiela garments, accessories and shoes for men and women.
Each piece is specifically labelled with a cloth tag that indicates the season — spanning 23 years since the Maison’s founding.
Five themes flow throughout the 103-piece offering, representing what Margiela stands for: Shape & Volume, where masculine silhouettes are adjusted to fill the female frame; Oversized, featuring oversized versions of pieces regardless of gender; Process Of Tailoring, leaving traditional finishes and tailoring procedures exposed and visible; Ambiguity, conveyed through the procedure of trompe l’oeil; and Transformation, offering a new use and shape to otherwise typical objects and materials, such as car seat covers, socks and comforters.
We asked the team from Maison Martin Margiela to take us through their thought processes working working with fashion giant H&M and here’s what the communications team said. zhang weifang
How were the pieces chosen for this collection?
It was initially brought up by the Maison on which items to be added. We went through the archive — the most emblematic and strongest pieces were chosen. But it’s been a very collaborative process this entire time between H&M and us. It was very much a give and take situation.
Were the pieces in the collaboration done in the artisanal way?
Because of the numbers, certain things haven’t been done exactly as they would have at the Maison. But the principles and the attention to detail have remained. That was a really big deal for us to make sure that everything was up to standard, you know, very well represented and … wonderful. We’re very happy. You’ll find that certain pieces that come from the artisanal collection, they’re the ones that are going to be in smaller quantities as well, so it’s reflected more so in that way. You can’t say they’re the more unique pieces, but there are less of them because they did take a little bit longer because they are a little bit harder to make. So it’s more representative that way.
How did MMM manage to keep the price point down for this collection?
This is a democratic collaboration, so it wouldn’t be fair if it were to be priced (higher). We had to change the fabrics. In the collection we saw heavy wool, thin wool, leather, cashmere ...
Was it tough to choose the pieces from your archives for the H&M offering?
It was quite a tough decision. So many pieces to go through, but it was a lot of fun. It’s more about picking out and selecting the truly iconic pieces from Maison Martin Margiela’s history.
We love the collection and the idea of re-issuing classics we weren’t able to get previously.
I think this opportunity was very strategic and it was very positive for both brands — H&M and Maison Martin Margiela — because our goal in this really was to provide everyone with the opportunity to own a piece of Martin Margiela, and sometimes it can be a challenge for the entire demographic to be able to own a specific piece. Being able to re-issue these iconic pieces really provides everyone that opportunity.
Was that why you guys went towards re-issuing iconic pieces rather than designing new pieces altogether?
It was definitely one of our thought processes. So now, those who weren’t old enough to own some of Margiela’s classics can purchase them via this collection.
This is what’s exciting. When we had a press day in Paris, a lot of journalists would look and say, “I remember this!” from 10 years ago. It was interesting to have people who were familiar with the designs.
It’s a little bit nostalgic to look back and remember the piece. But then, the new generation will look at these for the first time and be equally intrigued. It’s a nice dynamic.
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We highlight the pieces to zoom in on when the Maison Martin Margiela for H&M collection drops on Nov 15.
Bodysuit With Integrated Bra (Spring/Summer 2007) - S$79.90
This standout bodysuit is just the piece we need to pair with our distressed baggy jeans or a flouncy black skirt.
Oversized Jeans (Autumn/Winter 2000/2001) - S$119
Cuff them up and team them together with your favourite pair of stilettos.
Invisible Wedge Pump (Spring/Summer 2007) - S$399
Spotted on the feet of Selma Blair and Mena Suvari at the event were these invisible wedge pumps. We love the patent red pair.
Candy Clutch (Spring/Summer 2010) - S$99.90
Perfect for a formal event and quirky enough for a night around town.
Fusion Of Two Dresses (Autumn/Winter 1993/1994) - S$199
We love the asymmetrical hemline it offers, and how we can dress up – or down with a tee – for this remarkable piece.
Jacket Made Of Belts (Autumn/Winter 2007/2008) - S$549
You can borrow this from your boyfriend’s wardrobe if you buy this artisanal piece for him.
Reversed Denim Jacket (Spring/Summer 2005) - S$199
Everyone needs a denim jacket so why not start with this one?
Enlarged Watch Frame Bracelet (Autumn/Winter 2009/2010) - S$79.90
Accessories always seal the style deal for us, and this piece is a great conversation starter.